News from Bordeaux
Author: Simon Staples
Alun Griffiths MW (Wine Director) and I have just spent a fascinating week in the vineyards of Bordeaux. We were there mainly to re-taste the 2006s and the now bottled 2005s. The former have added a little weight now and are definitely softer than when we tasted them in April; with a few magnificent new finds for us, namely: Pavie Maquin and Larcis Ducasse, two glorious St Emilions made by Nicolas Theinpont. The latter, further highlighting how totally extraordinary 2005 is as a vintage – it really is perfect. The majority of the wines we re-tasted were rich, generous, complex, pure, beautiful, precise, exciting, sexy and totally rewarding.
I believe the 2005 vintage really will up there with 1982, 1961 and 1945 as one of the greatest ever. The other reason for our visit was to observe the harvest of the much talked about 2007. With real problems early on in the year of rot, and then as poor an August as we had here in the UK (I had the fire on twice!), the Bordelais were facing a dreadful outcome. Then, fortunately, the fabled “Indian Summer” kicked in with three glorious weeks of sunshine. Was it enough to save 2007?
Of course it is far to early to call, but the growers who have harvested the faster maturing Merlot (the majority of Pomerol, St Emilion and a good proportion of Pessac) seemed more than happy, several were very excited. Was this simply relief or genuine excellent quality? I’m seriously looking forward to finding out. The looks of the face of our friends in the Medoc, with its much slower ripening Cabernet Sauvignon, did not look quite so cheerful, sadly. They now have to sit, wait and hope that the next two weeks will bring warmth and sunshine. Fingers crossed for them all.
With world demand for this region (particularly the top 50 chateaux) growing every month I can’t see 2007 being a bargain vintage whatever the outcome. I really hope I’m wrong. For the future, my greatest concern for the new Bordeaux pricing structure is for those chateaux that are priced between the ever improving superstars of the region, who are currently selling for between £180 to £500 and are offering sublime and affordable wines, and the aspirational First Growths.
The wines in this “doldrum” area, with their very odd see-saw pricing structure, are our slowest selling by far,with a very few notable exceptions (i.e Leoville-Las Cases and occasionally Palmer and Angelus) and therefore I presume consumers struggle with bottles of wine on the table for more than £50 a bottle (inc taxes) unless its a £300 bottle of First Growth. This, of course, leads on to the 1855 classification table as many of these wines are “Super Second” Growths. I used to know all the classifications but now I hardly ever think “Is this Chateaux a 3rd or 4th Growth ” only how good is it for the price.
I wonder if anyone still considers at what rank their preferred chateaux are before they buy.
In a slightly perverse way, I’m quietly pleased that 2007 is likely to be a great vintage, despite the very welcome Indian Summer we enjoyed down here. I’m no expert, but I’ve read that much of the newer technology employed in wine making has helped ‘flatten out’ the vintages…or at least made it easier to produce a decent wine in a less than decent year. Of course, the differences may be more apparent in the top quality wines (which I get to taste…well, never) but it’s nice to know that Mother Nature can still play a significant role.
But what chance, in your view, a reclassification in the next couple of decades? It’d be sticking your neck out, I’m sure, and I guess the chances of significantly revising the classification that’s been in place for more than 150 years (and within which there remains a huge vested interest) are slim. But with so many unclassified wine makers producing such exemplary wines these days, surely it will increasingly become redundant (as you point out).
At which juncture (if we haven’t already) we all become reliant on the points and scores from the well-known tasters and eliminate the inherent competitive advantage enjoyed by classed growths. Amen to that.
Just out of interest, whatever happened to 2000?
The 2000’s are superb, amazingly sumptuous and forward, with probably only a handful of the Grand Vins not approachable now (and most petit Chateaux should be drunk up). They may well go the same way as the 1982’s i.e Drinking beautifully up to their 8/10th birthday and seemingly shutting down a little until their 20th.
I feel 2000 is closer to 1990 than 2005. It is rich and voluptuous but slightly lacks the cool inner core which most of the 2005’s boast. It’s a close call but what is great, if you have either vintage in your cellar, is that you are going to love them. If you are interested, my personal (and please note generalised) view on recent vintages is:
2006: 16/20 Left Bank.18/20 Right Bank.
2005: 20/20
2004: 17/20
2003: 16/20 General . 18/20 Northern Medoc
2002: 15/20
2001: 17/20
2000: 18/20
1999: 15/20
1998: 16/20 Left Bank. 18/20 Right Bank and Pessac
1997: 16/20
1996: 19/20 Medoc. 14/20 Right Bank.
1995: 17/20
1994: 14/20
@ Mark Pinsent
We did consider doing a BBR re-classification of Bordeaux while we were twiddling our thumbs waiting for the 2006 prices. Well, for about 30 seconds, then I considered never being invited to taste from the barrels again from our friends in Bordeaux and thought better of it. It definitely means far more to the owners than it does to us as Merchants and you the consumer. Perhaps a very well informed, independent journalist such as Jancis could put the proverbial chat amongst les pidgeons? I do think that even if a re-classification was drawn up – even for fun, perhaps we should leave it until the World Cup is a distant memory. It just wouldn’t be sporting now.
As for the scoring/points debate, many customers comment that they really appreciate the BBR Score (An average drawn from 6/10 experienced palates). They now triangulate not only the points but notes from a couple of merchants, maybe Jancis or Parker and make up their own minds rather than just going with one when they choose their En Primeur wines. Whichever way the consumer does choose, what is apparent to us is that following one “independent” writer and scores is far less popular now than 5 years ago.
Have to say I think Simon’s 15/20 for 2002 is rather mean. I’d say 17/20 for left-bank based on terrific bottles recently drunk of (eg) Poyferre, Calon, Tour Ht Brion, Lagrange etc (and very good and good value Duhart, Armailhac etc). The Poyferre I compared closely to the very good 04 and the 02 is certainly the more complete wine, a real classic – and the price is still good in the market!
Best –
Richard
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