Pivotal Pinots
Author: Jasper Morris MW
We are in the middle of the 2006 Burgundy Campaign at the moment but I have not lost sight of Pinot Noir from elsewhere. Decanter Magazine commissioned me to write a piece on the best locations in the New World for Pinot – just published in their February 2008 issue, and I thoroughly enjoyed writing it.
Though New Zealand, Oregon and parts of California are most people’s favourite corners my real conclusion is that it is down in part to the real detail of specific sub-regions and most especially to the drive of ultra-talented vignerons with a passion for this grape.
Just what can be achieved was driven home to me last Tuesday at a Paulée lunch with lots of Burgundian friends when a whole host of fine bottles were brought along by the various guests. I brought amongst other things a bottle of Jim Clendenen’s Au Bon Climat Cuvée Isabelle 1996, made from grapes from various vineyards in the Santa Ynez, Santa Maria and Arroyo Grande Valleys of California’s Central Coast. Another guest, by chance, brought the 1997 of the same.
Sitting next to me was Marie-Blanche Lamarche of Domaine François Lamarche in Vosne Romanée, and she had never tasted a Californian Pinot which had impressed her before but on this occasion, unsolicited, she was full of praise for the two Cuvée Isabelle wines which she felt she would certainly have placed in Burgundy if they had been served blind. Intriguingly the vintages conformed more or less to the Burgundian pattern, with a soft ripe and flavoursome 1997 and a more concentrated, fresher 1996.
Many people appreciate the qualities of the best New World Pinots, but how many wines have been, or might be mistaken for Burgundy? I am not trying to push producers down this path but am intrigued when it happens. Please share your thoughts and experiences.
As part of a leisurely wine tasting weekend south of San Francisco I visited Ridge, Bonny Doon, Wente, the David Bruce Winery and a couple of other lesser names. Most of what I drank was Cabernet, Merlot, Petite Sirah (often delicious), Zinfandel and several curious blends from the amazingly eclectic BDV list, including their signature, and splendid, Le Cigare Volant. Only David Bruce majored on Pinot Noir and I’m glad I tried them. His 2002 Chalone Brousseau, 2004 Santa Cruz Mountains and 2005 Sonoma Coast were all excellent and very reasonably priced. The most surprising success I found was a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Viognier from Crooked Vine, called CV Charve (acute accent on the e). This combined, in their words, the creamy, smoky aspects of Chard with the tropical fruit and spiciness of Viognier. With typical Californian adventure it was served with chocolate!
I am so glad that my husband managed to get out of the office on the weekend and discoverd that Silicon Valley has more than one string to its bow. I am particularly interested to hear more about the ‘CV Charve’ as it is always difficult to find something to go with a chocolate pudding.
As it happens to be St.Valentine’s day I send him my love and he will be pleased to know that his latest BBR delivery arrived this morning – a few hours before my beautiful roses for which I thank him.
I love this ! Romance carried out through the twin joys of pinot noir and the BBR blog site!
I have not tried the Crooked Vine wine, though I have always loved the viognier chardonnay blend which Bob Lindquist of Qupe Winery pioneered in the early 1990s. Not sure about it with chocolate though. But you might want to try something like Alain Chatoux’s straight Beaujolais alongside your mousse or chocolate for a refreshing experiment.
Was that beautiful roses or beautiful rosés your husband sent you by the way ?