I had just about recovered from the humiliation of my apparent blind tasting inadequacies (please read the previous blog-Bourgogne Blancoff) when the first red of the night was poured: 2000 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, Les Charmes, Domaine Ponsot. I’ve found Ponsot’s wines a little inconsistent in the 90’s but whizz bang this was spot on! From a vintage that is showing oh so well at the moment, with this displaying such perfume and brightness and energy. A tarty, Christiano Ronaldo of a Pinot, all show and style, it was a classic example of the Ponsot flashiness and interestingly it reminded me a bit of the great Sylvain Cathiard’s Vosne Romanées. A great start and a perfect match with David’s homemade foie gras terrine with a plum and port chutney, that just melted in the mouth (the man has talent in the kitchen).

On to the second wine and for me the finest exponent of Gevrey-Chambertin. Armand Rousseau, I hear you shout! Well not for me… not when you have the unassuming talent that is Denis Bachelet; very much a man that lets his wines do the talking. Denis has been rolling out stunning wines from a cellar no bigger than my desk (not big as you can see above left!) for many years and is now starting to get the recognition he deserves. Alas, due to the size of his cellar, there is hardly any wine!!! So the 1998 Gevrey-Chambertin Vielles Vignes graced the table and as expected it showed all the savoury, meaty hallmarks of classic Gevrey. An exemplary broad texture to the palate, with fruit coating the mouth, a contrast to the flashy, energy of the Ponsot. For a mere village wine this was top notch and you certainly had the feeling it would get even better. Again this worked superbly with David’s take on famed chef Fergus Henderson’s roast bone marrow and parsley salad – with David adding fried lamb’s sweet bread on the side… another triumph from the chef!

Well things were getting rather jovial and the main of roast haunch of venison with celeriac and potato gratin and baked endive was not far away. So time for a mini horizontal from 1995. Well two bottles anyway! A Côte de Beaune Village from Domaine Leroy’s negociant arm and a M-S-D 1er cru, Clos de la Bussiere from Domaine Roumier. Only from a legendary Estate such as Leroy would a mere Cote de Beaune be holding up and amazingly, showing real interest. Ok, it was nowhere near the quality of the first two wines but hey it was interesting and a still really enjoyable – what wine is about, no???

Then suddenly it arrived, the world stood still: the moment all Burgundy lovers dream of…that epiphany moment when you realise you are experiencing a wine that is oh so special. Now we all know that Christophe Roumier knows how to make wine but from his “Clos de la Bussiere”, the forgotten wine in his range, I did not cater for this!!! The perfect balance between youthful fruit and ageworthy complexity. Such perfume to the nose, so subtle yet expressive, effortless. The palate had this similar grace that just danced all over this young innocent palate like Fred Astaire. A stunning wine that may, just may get even better. Perhaps I’m just pretty sad that a wine can conjure up such emotions and perhaps in Burgundy it is most evident. Christophe Roumier is the kind of guy that I would usually take a disliking to…young, hugely talented and exceptionally pleasing on the eye for the ladies (apparently anyway!), but there is no way on God’s green earth that I cannot but like such a personable man that can craft something so beautiful as this. The food was once again exemplary, however it did seem to take second place here (sorry David!).

Well after a lie down to gain composure, it was time for cheese and a very special bottle of 1988 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, Les Cazetiers from my second most favourite Gevrey producer: Armand Rousseau! Well what can you say, about as classic example of mature Burgundy as you would want. A soft savoury meatiness apparent, whilst still retaining fresh red fruit and a wonderful floral edge. It just lingered in the glass and left such fragrance. On any other night, this would be the star as it was really special, but tonight alas it has to be bridesmaid.

Well, there were a few other bits and bobs consumed but our Burgundy night was over. Another night to remember and another reason why Burgundy is so, so, special to wine lovers. Life is great!

See also The 2005 Bourgogne Blancoff!