After checking in at the beautiful Ch. du Tertre and a quick lunch in Margaux we headed north to taste in St Julien, invariably the most consistent appellation of Bordeaux.  Not knowing quite what to expect, I think it fair to say that we have been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the ’08s so far.  We all know that these wines have to be released at pre-2005 prices but, prices and politics to one side, Beychevelle are clearly following their upward trajectory in terms of quality, Branaire cool and pure, the two Bartons impeccably made as ever, Ducru highly impressive and Poyferre as stylish as ever.  I haven’t quite pinned the vintage down yet (’01? ‘02 with more flesh?) but hope that tomorrow’s tastings in Graves and St Emilion will be as pleasing as today’s.  A few wines released in our absence look to be pricey, though we have heard some sensible words today, notably at Leoville-Barton.  We shall see…

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