Always variable in years like these, Margaux is probably the most difficult of the left bank appellations to taste.  Margaux itself delicate and fresh, Palmer all correct and easier to gauge at this stage than in most years.  Brane-Cantenac soft and supple.  Giscours both structured and supple and du Tertre, our base for the past few days, is soft, textured, fruit-driven and quite delicious.  Indeed we have enjoyed 2002, 2001 and 1982 du Tertre over the past 24 hours.  Excellent wines from a most generous and amiable host, Alexander van Beek.  Thank you. (JF)

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