Comments on: Chianti Classico, May 2010 – un punto di vista (a point of view)

By: Damien Casten

Damien Casten — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 21:24:36 +0000

David,

I had a long conversation with Sean O’Callaghan at Riecine last month on this same topic, touching on the Mezzadaria system and how things used to be. Sean outlined much of what you write about here in a short video we shot. I work with Sean in Chicago, IL, but I think the educational value of the story makes it worth sharing here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI2bYWE_QJE

Cheers,

Damien

By: jovica todorovic (teo)

jovica todorovic (teo) — Fri, 04 Jun 2010 13:07:47 +0000

We are definitely on the same side. I do understand your point of view and also your doubts about Tuscan style if compared with Piedemont. I think that there are many historical and cultural differences that devide the to approaches to wine growing and producing.
I absolutely agree with you concerning the over exctract and muscolar wines that were very interesting to critics and wine journalist for many years. Many things have been change in tha last couple of years. I’m not that confident with the UK market but in Italy as you pointed out as well the interest for fine and elegant wines is growing constantly. Most people are after drinkable wines rather then powerfull and rich.
Tuscany and Chianti Classico didn’t care about that for several years. The best known estates had lost most of their quality and personality and position on the market. There some small producers that are doing very well but there are enormous problems for those new producers to pop out and to be discovered.
I looking forward for your notes of the other areas of Tuscany.

Cheers.
Teo

By: DBG

DBG — Fri, 04 Jun 2010 06:40:01 +0000

Thanks Teo for your compliments. Pls bear in mind that my piece concerns only Chianti Classico & does not cover the rest of Tuscany (later!) I think we’re on the same side, although I do take issue with a couple of the estates you list as being too extracted/forced/scuro! I work with Stella di Campalto, introducing the wines to the UK & admire the wines of Soldera so we’re close enough. The great challenge, secondo me, going forward is to re-educate a generation of (International) palates used to dark, heavy Brunello, Nobile, & Chianti Classico that Sangiovese actually produces light, fine, elegant DRINKABLE wine in the mould of Nebbiolo; but then the consumer’s been hoodwinked (by journalists/consultants, tasting not drinking) into thinking that dark = real, light = dilute! Are you with me?!
DBG

By: jovica todorovic (teo)

jovica todorovic (teo) — Thu, 03 Jun 2010 16:58:46 +0000

A very interesting point of view. Most of Tuscany is well described by you words but there’s also a let’s say not reveled Tuscany that is surprisingly rich in finesse and elegance rather then powerfulness and structure.
Some sugestions:

Monteraponi riserva il Campietello 2006
Castell’In Villa riserva 1995 or 2001 or 2004 or 2006
Castello di Monsanto riserva il Poggio 1999 or 2001 or 2004 or 2006
Le Porte di Vertine riserva 2006
Le Cinciole both chianti classico and Riserva.
Montegrossi
Pacina

as well as the best known Montevertine, Fontodi, Felsina

and talking about Montalcino
Le Ragnaie
Poggio di Sotto
Le chiuse
Stella di Campalto
Case Basse by Gianfranco Soldera
Salvioni
Piancornello

Most of them are not simple farmers but the wines are amazing.
…..well talking from the Italian point of view.