It’s not easy to find Cascina Fontana. True, there are two signs showing you the way: one’s ten metres from his front gate; the other’s at the gate itself. But then perhaps it’s no coincidence to find (or not) that the Fontana cantina’s off the beaten track, tucked away in the sleepy enclave of Perno, lying one ridge behind Castiglione Falletto. There are no other cantine to speak of in the hamlet, no eatery, not even a café. This suits Mario just fine, for he, like his wines, is no flamboyant self-publicist. Okay, so he’s just bought himself a large green tractor but that’s it. He rents his cantina, along with his home, ever since he decided to go it alone in 1995; following his nose as a sixth generation Barolista. Little surprise then that he rarely submits his wines for magazine tastings. The moment I chuckle most is when he utters the words: ‘Look, I’m not a commercial man’, despite the fact that his Baroli are some of the most drinkable and most reasonably priced in the land; lapped up by everyone fortunate to stumble upon them…