Cidre, poiré and Pont l’Evêque cheese

Author:

apples

While Calvados needs little introduction, its key ingredient – cidre – is often overlooked. Here, Francis Huicq, our London Shop Manager, introduces us to an elegant, semi-sparkling version (and its delicately flavoured pear counterpart) made by favoured producer Domaine Coeur de Lion.

Normandy is a wonderful region, with a coastline consisting – for the most part – of long low dunes, lapped by the Channel, and dotted with lush meadows. Its bucolic farmland is famed for both its cheese and apples: a feast of cultural heritage and gastronomic indulgence. From the thousand-year-old embroidery of the Bayeux Tapestry and the magnificent abbey of Mont St-Michel to 19th-century resorts such as Étretat and Trouville, the region is a marvel.

We have the privilege at Berry Bros. & Rudd to work very closely with wonderful producers. Domaine Coeur de Lion is no exception and, since its appearance in our portfolio 15 years ago, it has contributed a fantastic Calvados to our range of spirits.

The domain was established in the 1960s by Christian Drouin, an industrialist, who purchased a farm in Gonneville (between Deauville and Pont-l’Evêque). His vision was to produce the best Calvados from the existing orchards. Today run by Guillaume, the third generation, the domaine has maintained this tradition while achieving a solid reputation not only in France but also in the US, Japan and of course the UK.

Of course, Calvados wouldn’t exist without first creating cidre or poiré (pear cider, or perry) – the fermented fruit juice which is then distilled into the spirit. In their own right, however, these are both delicious drinks.

At Drouin, the aim is to achieve a balance through the 30 apple and pear tree varietals planted in the orchards in Gonneville-sur-Honfleur. Four types of fruit noted for their bitter, sweet, soft and high acidity are used. Only those fruit which ripen mid-season (October to November) and late-season (harvested in December) are used to create cidre.

Cidre and poiré are both made from pure fruit juice and finish their second fermentation in bottle – the process which confers their semi-sparkling character. The Cidre Brut is rich in flavour and generous, light-bodied and fruity. It has a beautiful character that combines apples, nutmeg and delicate savoury notes. This is perfect with food such as partridge, fish or cheese.

Drouin’s Poiré in contrast has a wonderful and delicate bouquet, suggestive of fresh pears, cinnamon and citrus. Light-bodied and refreshing, it has a texture which melts on the palate and can partner a varied range of food from oysters to fruit tarts.

Drop into No.3 St James’s to sample some Cidre et Poiré every Friday afternoon throughout August (12 noon to 5pm). Paxton & Whitfield will also be offering a 10 percent discount on Camembert de Normandie and Pont-l’Évêque to customers who have bought a bottle of Cidre or Poiré – simply present your receipt.