Photograph: Joakim Blockstrom

The 1995 and 1996 vintages seem to belong to a different era these days, with the 2000 vintage acting as a watershed in a change of style, and consumers’ perception, of vintages from Bordeaux.  Upscale, both 1995 and 1996 are pretty much at their best, with 1997 starting to look a little threadbare. While the 1999s are mature, 1998 is still as yet to shine fully. The 2000 vintage itself shows well – and the higher grade wines (as expected) still have much to offer. Drinking very well now, 2001 is still an absolute charmer. The wines from 2002 won’t make old bones and should be considered, they can give a lot of pleasure. Some châteaux’s 2003s look set to last and don’t show the androgynous heat which the lesser wines can display. Wines from 2004 deserve a little longer and 2005 requires even longer. The 2006 wines are starting to show their appeal and 2007s are – with few exceptions – fully ready to go. Anything from 2008 can lie, as can all serious 2009s and 2010s.

Look out for next week’s instalment on Burgundy and find a full vintage chart on bbr.com.