I have tasted only a few wines from 2010 so far and all have been in their infancy. It is therefore a bit too early to pass judgement, but the 2010 Bordeaux vintage is looking promising. 2009 was a great final chapter to what has been the most successful decade Bordeaux has ever seen, but 2010 is looking set to be the start of another one. It is too early to say and we will be going back in early April to taste all the wines, but in the meantime here are the hard facts so you can make your own judgment:
 
Rainfall between July and October in 2005-2009-2010 (from the French met office)
  
 
Hours of sunshine between July and October in 2005-2009-2010 (from the French met office)
 

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Having been in business for over 300 years, BB&R has seen many trends come and go and we have always used this knowledge to make sure that we were reactive when we needed to be, but also that we remained trendsetters, rather than followers. In the early 80s St Emilion wines were on the verge of losing their identity due to a new “garage” style, initiated by Michel Roland and Robert Parker. It was a concept born to revitalise the St Emilion market and make it accessible to the world, but, unfortunately, something that started as genuine commercial solution to the region’s problems quickly escalated in the destruction of an identity. Not everybody followed suit but the new image of St Emilion was one of over extracted, over oaked and powerful Merlot that rivalled with those of California or Australia. On the back of this trend BB&R significantly reduced their St Emilion portfolio to concentrate on the Crus classes of the Médoc.

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Although it is very early to say, I think at this stage the 2010 Bordeaux vintage will not be quite in the same league as 2009. It would be very unfair to generalize, but early signs show that the Merlot, once again, has failed to deliver. With a very fragile flowering season and a very dry summer, wines with a high proportion of Merlot will not, in most cases, be as great as last year. For dry whites on the other hand, the grapes and the numbers look very good. Again, it’s too early to say, and we cannot drink data, but looking at the paperwork and the grapes at arguably one of the best dry white Bordeaux producers…things are looking good.

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Just back from a few days in Bordeaux where, every two years in June, it is home to the drinks industry’s Olympic equivalent, VINEXPO.  Around 50,000 visitors from around the world descend for five days to meet 2,500 exhibitors. Products range from spirits to liquors and alcohopops but the main emphasis is on wines from around the world. The mood this year was very good despite visitor number being down by around 25% and most exhibitors managed to do some good business, as visitors who made the effort to come had “purchasing” in mind.  A few of the top Bordeaux estates take this opportunity to throw big dinners and parties for their best customers and friends. Ch. Haut Brion and Ch. La Mission were the first to kick start the show with (I have been told, as I arrived on Tuesday) a great party for 300 guests.  After a warm-up dinner on Tuesday night with a good negotiant friend (1966 Ch. Palmer- 1954 Ch. Haut Brion- imperial of 1995 Ch. Latour, amongst others) and a day full of meetings at VINEXPO, I attended what was hailed as the dinner of the year at Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou (see above). (more…)