The Ambassador may not always seduce passers-by with its motley facade of fading paint, lino flooring and Formica tables, but if you ignore the cliché and judge the book by its cover, you’ll soon be singing its chabby yet chic praises.

Why? Because the restaurant’s title can also be attributed to its owner Clive Greenhalgh who here proves himself to be Ambassador for British Brasseries by instilling the same Mod Brit’-style directness of ventures such as Spitalfields Canteen or St John Bread & Wine, and indeed The Brackenbury of which he was formerly maître d’.

The cover of this book juxtaposed with the content – the charming and unprentiously-trendy staff together with the well-thought out and continually revived food and wine menu - hits the quintessentially British Brasserie nail on the head and certainly seduced me.

Fine Food & Fine Wine

Browsing through a menu which appeared to offer something for all palates and price points while basking in the sun at an alfresco street table, my palate was about to be seduced by layers upon layers of complexity from food and wine alike…

• Starter: Warm Quail Egg Salad

Alongside a refined and refreshing Picpoul de Pinet, the quail eggs were beautiful, their yoke gently oozing onto the salad leaves, while scattered radishes flashed shots of colour and gave texture to each bite. Simple. Lovely.

• Main: Roast Hake with Chorizo

Perfectly pan-fried and lightly seasoned, the hake was accompanied by the salty, strong tang of Chorizo and crisp, crunchy potatoes. A delicious red pepper and coriander sauce with its heady herby scent, sweet creamy taste and bold orange hue added yet more dimensions for the senses – yet, somehow, I still wasn’t a victim of palate fatigue. A lightly chilled Vigna Grande from Puglia stood up to the strong flavours, rounding off a dish which packed a bold punch, and blew me away.

• Dessert: Baked Custard, Raspberries and Shortbread

Rich and smooth without been sickly, the custard was served lightly chilled and scattered with plump raspberries. I also sneaked a bite of their ‘Strawberries in Beaujolais‘ which was a lovely, light alternative.

Who’s it an Ambassador for?

Everyone. Its eclectic fare (wine, food & price), friendly yet professional staff and relaxed atmosphere exclude nobody. It’s the ideal British Brasserie - the epitome of modesty and inclusivity.

Louis Roederer, a wonderful family-owned Champagne house founded in 1776, has a tremendous reputation for quality and the successful marriage of tradition and innovation.

To stay ahead of the game, the house has now also launched a new interactive website designed by Paris-based French agency Duke, which intends to embrace innovation by involving the user with blended images, fine text and graphic packages.

The split screen function on the homepage plays on the marriage of innovation and tradition with technical detail from the Roederer winemaking family meeting its art patronage in the centre of the screen.

“With the launch of our new website we want to show our loyalty to both creativity and tradition. All forms of art require the same levels of commitment and determination to create a true masterpiece,” said Frédéric Rouzaud, president of Champagne Louis Roederer.

At last week’s Yarra Yering Dinner in Berrys’ Cellars, Mark Haisma, Winemaker at YY since 1997, steered 35 fortunate guests through six wines and one fortified; the final pair coming from the 1980 vintage.

Mark kicked off with a 2006 Viognier and 2006 Chardonnay: both apricot stone and citrus rich respectively; fresh, taut and minerally despite the drought. We then skipped a decade or so to the rare 1992 Merlot: a beautifully compact, yet full wine, lush with herb and earth characters held fresh with some stone fruit structure. A 1991 Underhill Shiraz followed, a single vineyard wine of Hermitage proportions: grilled meat, savoury and herbal notes crammed onto the palate, ushered in by the silkiest of textures; again, still young with 5 - 10 yrs ahead of it.

The final pair, from the 1980 vintage, showed why Yarra Yering is feted among those in the know: the No. 2 (a blend of Shiraz, Viognier and a dash of Marsanne) showed a Côte-Rôtie-esque perfume and femininity; the antithesis of the Underhill. While alongside was the No. 1 which even at 28 yrs old was totally composed and linear, no hint of drying out or fraying.

And as if that wasn’t enough, Mark unveiled a stunning Potsorts, a deadringer for the Douro and the finest Portuguese fortified I’ve tasted outside of Pinhao: still young with rocky blackberry fruit and taut minerality.

So what’s the secret? Terroir, in a word. When Dr Bailey Carrodus, now in his ninth decade, created the estate in 1969, he chose an elevated site, cooled by the onshore breezes and blessed with significant diurnal shift. Heavy canopies are encouraged to shade the fruit, while being dry-farmed from the start has imbued the vines with the wherewithal to look after themselves come what may. Yields are low and up to 30% stalks are used in the fermentation, giving added polyphenol structure.

Just when the rest of corporate Australia buckles under the water shortages, Yarra Yering’s 2006’s have never looked so smart!

Monday 16th June - We had what can only be described as wine ‘enlightenment’ this week - truly one of the greatest evenings of my twenty years in the wine trade.

I used the excuse of having the always insightful and enigmatic Jean-Guillaume Prats, Managing Director of Château Cos d’Estournel dropping by, to raid the family reserves (Simon Berry fully aware!) and have a blind tasting with a few wine-loving clients.

We kicked off with some barrel samples of the 2007 Ch. Cos d’Estournel. More soft, rich, seductive and down right sexy than it was in April, this is going to be an anomaly, an early drinking Cos that will give great pleasure over the next 10/15 yrs.

To wash down its ripe, fine tannins we then indulged in a glass of my favourite NV champagne at the moment, Gosset Grand Reserve and to accompany the amuse bouche and starter, we had a stunning 2002 Meursault Goutte D’or from Dominique Lafon. Absolutely brilliant, it was concentrated and yielding with lovely precise minerality and great length. On any other night it would have won the Oscar…hands down. Not tonight.

Berrys’ Fine Wine Commercial Manager Mark Ross and I excused ourselves from the table to organise the evening’s centre pieces. A brace of both the 1870 and 1945 Ch. Cos d’Estournel. These bottles had not moved from the BBR family vault since their arrival some 130 and 50 years ago. After three days standing, the levels on the 1870’s were mid shoulder and the 1945’s top shoulder as would be expected of wines this old. I was more excited than nervous as we cracked the seals open and the corks came out like I’d imagine opening a tomb, with a discernable sigh as the wine inhaled! We carefully decanted them, nosed and took a tiny hesitant sip. Were they alive? Corked? Maderised? Revolting?

Blimey! Not just hanging in there, but bursting to get out with a vibrancy that was totally unbelievable. Astonished we contemplated telling our guests they were corked and quaffing the lot ourselves but the joy of the moment made us want to share the experience which is probably the best thing about great wine. You want to share it.

We whizzed the 1870 around the table of 10, nervous that the huge gulp of air it had taken might prove too much. I didn’t need to worry. Then for that sublime smug moment. “Ok then…what year are we looking at?” A question I’m asked only too often. All our guests that night were more than experienced in vinous matters… a firm and confident “70!” was called…Good Lord! But before I could accuse my guest of blatant cheating and sneaking a peek he quantified his guess “No, it’s younger than that…and a great wine…1982!!”

Phew! Good job I hadn’t waded in with usual Staples decorum. A few other guesses of 82…1982! One 1989. Hang on, a 1959 from my right hand. All eyes to our guest of honour, Jean-Guillaume Prats. “No, it’s much older, 1928 or 29?” The time taken mulling things over had allowed the wine to evolve beautifully. The colour would have made me think 1960 or 1970, the nose, though a tad sepulchre at first was sweet and seductive. On the palate it was sweeter still, had beautiful balance and sublime intensity.

If I had a drum kit, and the ability to play them, a drum roll was in order. As I announced it there was a stunned silence for about 10 seconds (from a group not known for such things!) then an outpouring of amazement. Brilliant. The second bottle was just a fraction behind in quality and within an hour of being in the glass the old statement had expired…but what an hour!

The 1945 Ch. Cos d’Estournel was stunning too. Sadly they were on to me and guesses of 1947/49 came in very swiftly so I had to fess up. I think because it followed such an astonishing experience, the simply sublime 1945 was not given the reverence it deserved. Still stunned we moved on to one of my all time (obtainable!) faves, Ch. Cos d’Estournel 1985. Such primary fruit in comparison to its predecessors was a shock.

A brilliant bottle of 2001 Ch. de Fargues (a poor man’s 2001 Ch. d’Yquem) washed down a small pud and we then headed home with huge smiles on every face. I had emails of thanks from all attendees just reiterating what an astonishing wine moment it was. Some said they got home and just sat reflecting over such a glorious event.

When I got home I checked my stock of 2005 Ch. Cos d’Estournel to check my future drinking…I MIGHT see the full potential of the bottles, I just hope my great, great, great grandchildren enjoy the Magnums and Double Mags!

I love my job!

Last Friday, we were lucky enough to have Mark Hasima, from Yarra Yering Vineyard, brave the train from London Waterloo and visit Berrys Bros. & Rudd in sunny Basingstoke! He came armed with the new 2006 Vintage of YY and some older vintages of the famed No 1, No 2 and Underhill. Mark is great ambassador for YY; a quintessential strapping Aussie male with forthright views and most importantly a passion for what he does. When speaking to Mark you really do get the influence of his mentor, the owner of Yarra Yering, Dr Bailey Carrodus, a legend in the Australian wine industry.

YY has been a favourite with BBR (see picture of me at YY right) and our customers for several years, with the style being a cross between Australian flamboyance and the Old World’s restraint and class. During the tasting Mark was keen to point out that one of the key ingredients to YY’s success is the vintage variation that the estate experiences (being based in the cooler climate of the Yarra Valley in Victoria). This was very apparent in the tasting, with the open knit and flashy style of 2004 appealing to all (think Elton John), whilst the structured and tannic 2005’s gave about as much away as a Fabio Cappello interview in English! The 2006’s were a balance between the two earlier vintages, looking very impressive (particularly the monolithic No 1).

In an age where globalization and commercialisation are so apparent, where we are drinking brands rather than particular wines on their own merit, it is great and fascinating to see subtle style changes each year, not by winemakers choice but on the decision of Mother Nature. Many wine lovers in Europe lambast the New World for lacking the variation and complexity of the old World regions…well taste three vintages of the YY No 2. and think again my friend!

We should embrace different vintage characteristics as this is what makes wine so interesting. So 2007 Bordeaux isn’t going to be a legendary year to drink in 20 years time. Well to be honest I’m bloomin happy with that, as I need something soft and approachable to drink at some point in the next 20 years!!! Drinking the great vintages is always good, but to really appreciate these you have to drink the vintages where the vigneron had to earn his living!

It’s summer, you’re a red wine fan and while a big juicy steak is great every now and again, sometimes the weather calls for lighter foods such as chicken or fish.

I’ve found one of the best ways of transforming a white wine food into red wine food is the use of smoke.

But I’m not just talking about whacking it on a regular barbeque…oh no, that would be far too easy…if you’re feeling a bit ambitious try turning your barbeque into a mesquite smoker!

And should our not-so-trusty British sun fail to shine, you can easily use your oven to create exactly the same result.

Here’s how:

• Season your chicken or fish (salmon works particularly well)
• Line a deep frying pan with a double layer of aluminium foil
• Put in some mesquite chips & place a rack with the salmon on top over the chips
• Cover tightly with a foil lined cover to concentrate smoke on your food rather than your clothes & kitchen
• Place in the top of the oven on maximum for 15-20 mins (depending on food type)

White wonders step aside; this is a red wine food! Try serving with the 2003 Ch. Picard, St Estèphe. This is a wine of huge richness and depth showing all the hallmarks of one of the most successful St Estèphe vintages ever. Whatsmore the tannins are so ripe and soft, they simply melt away into this delicious wine and would be a beautiful accompaniment to the rich flavours yet delicate texture of the salmon.

(Image: Still life with Red Wine by Mauro Cellini)

Since recently returning from a captivating holiday in Cuba, my boyfriend Barney and I (below) have been trying to recreate a little bit of Havanan cocktail magic of our own.

We might be lacking the Caribbean sunshine and fading grandeur that Havana has to offer, but Barney has become an expert at making Mojitos.

They are not quite as good as those we enjoyed at El Floridita, crafted by Cuba’s top mixologists, but this is our recipe - perfected by my very own Tom Cruise. Enjoy!

• Two shots of Havana Club Anejo Blanco
• 1 shot of fresh lemon and lime juice
• 2-3 fresh mint leaves
• 2 teaspoons caster sugar
• 1 teaspoon Angostura Bitters
• Soda water
• Ice

Muddle the mint and sugar together in the bottom of a tall glass. Add the rum and citrus juice and stir. Add ice, top with soda water and finish with a teaspoon of Angostura Bitters and stir again.

Gerry Casey, who died in Bordeaux last week, was an integral part of the Wine Division for 20 years. Already well known to the company through his work with the negociant house of Mahler Besse, he was the obvious choice to run our Bordeaux Office when it was established by Christopher Berry Green in 1974.

Many current members of BB&R spent time with Gerry in Bordeaux, learning about the region through his unique insights. Also unique were his driving skills (slow down the straights, fast round the corners), although they had the advantage of keeping the occupants of the rear seats awake after a good lunch at the Plaisance in St Emilion or le Mar aux Grenouilles in Lesparre.

His Irish background, coupled with an RAF/ ham radio vocabulary, and an adult life spent almost exclusively abroad, meant that Gerry’s way of talking was instantly recognisable. He relished the English language, and his ability to write meant that his ‘Vitsits’, sent vie the trusty telex, became a required read for anyone who wanted to know what was happening in the vineyards of Bordeaux.

His French, of course, was equally immaculate (he had a wine column in the local Bordeaux newspaper for many years), even if he resolutely refused to waver from his British accent. The message on the answerphone of the office in the Boulevard President Wilson - “Ici le Repondeur de la Maison Berry Bros and Rudd…” was worth the price of the call alone. He once, famously, tried to explain the rules of cricket, in French, to a group of Bordelaise vignerons. It didn’t catch on.

Of all the things we learnt from Gerry, we could never hope to replicate one of his finest achievements: the ability to spit wine at a tasting, accurately, powerfully, and without letting a drop spill! He claimed that the best practise should happen in the bath, with a mouthful of water aimed at the big toe.

Gerry spotted Francoise in the English section of the Bordeaux library, and they were married soon afterwards. The mainstay of his life, she helped him through his final illnesses with great dedication and good humour. She, together with their children Caroline and Jerome, and everyone who knew him, will miss him greatly.

In 50 years’ time, Berrys believes wine is unlikely to be sold in glass bottles. Using glass will be unrealistic as retailers and importers try to cut costs, waste, and reduce the environmental impact of wine being shipped around the globe.

The average weight of a wine bottle is 500g, but there have been recent moves to produce more lightweight bottles.

Berrys believes the cost and environmental impact of shipping pre-bottled wine around the world means, in the future, we’re likely to see ‘wine tankers’ crossing our oceans. Bulk shipments of wine could arrive, before being put into plastic or reinforced cardboard containers in a bid to reduce environmental emissions and create a domestic bottling industry.

“I see a far greater range of packaging on the shelves in 2058. Cartons will be the obvious choice for much of the wine and will dominate the shelves for the mass market. Variety will be greater – we’re already seeing 500 ml and 1 litre options. Cartons will mean far more tailoring to consumption and branding opportunities for big brands.”

Ian Williamson, Tetra Pak UK

In March we kicked off the first UK Cutty Sark Cocktail competition following the 85th anniversary of the creation of the brand.

The competition has generated tremendous interest from both the bartender community and cocktail enthusiasts with over 800 entries all competing to win a weekend in New York.

The six finalists have been chosen and voting will now start on selecting the UK’s favourite Cutty Sark cocktail.

The lucky winner will be announced on Friday, 13th June 2008 (unlucky for some!).

 Andy Pearson, the Bartender Guild’s 2007 UK Mixology Champion, will walk you through the six finalists’ recipes on drinkshop.com

There are some great Cutty recipes for the summer including “Restoration” and “Sail Away Sark”.

Please log on, watch the videos and vote for your favourite.