I had been much looking forward to this tasting, having been to the region some months before (see my blog: ‘Bramaterra, Gattinara and Boca – the Côte Rotie of Piedmont?!’) There I had met a new generation coming through, mostly speaking a different language to that of their parents (Conti, Barbaglio, Antoniotti, Vallana); there were stirrings of new (foreign) investment (Le Piane, Nervi, Montalbano); I had heard how the regulations were changing rapidly to reflect a rising demand for Nebbiolo (Boca, Bramaterra); and how the (US) market was now taking a keen interest, though this time perhaps less in bulk, more in bottle. I fancied that in the face of global warming this formerly cool spot for Nebbiolo might just come into its own, and their slightly lower alcohols and extra freshness perhaps giving them an advantage over their Langhe cousins.

So what of the wines? Overall the feeling by those tasting was one of disorientation: wine styles were unclear and the quality slightly unpredictable; there was little sense of where the value lay when compared with what the Langhe was already offering (so said a customer also attending!). That said, these Alto Piemonte wines definitely had a crisper profile, being generally lighter too in alcohol, so presenting a refreshing contrast to those of the Langhe. There was no doubting the squarer, iron-fisted ‘Nebbiolarity’ (!?) of the Gattinara wines which constituted nearly half the range. Boca: pretty and whimsical on account of the Vespolina element perhaps. Bramaterra: taut, complex, porcelain given its elevation, varietal mix (Nebbiolo, Croatina, Vespolina, and Uva Rara) and calcareous veins. Lessona sandy soft while the ‘catch-all’ zones of Colline Novaresi Nebbiolo (to the east) and Coste delle Sesia Nebbiolo (the west) proved delicious early-drinkability (ala Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba!)

Put it down to the delirium of flu but it looks as if two camps are already developing in the Alto Piemonte: the ‘modernists’ (Sperino, Antoniolo, Le Piane, Chiovini and Nervi in due course) and ‘traditionalist’ (Vallana, Conti, Antoniotti, Patriarca, Travaglini, Sella, Iaretti, Franchino)? Echoing the Langhe of the 1970/80s, the ‘moderniste’ may be creating the perception, through tweaks in cantina (barriques, extraction, concentration, ‘other’ grapes etc..) and by way of marketing, that their product/style of wine is superior (over the ‘tradizionaliste’) decorating their wines with extra short-term appeal and thus making the traditionalists’ world look distinctly dowdy. The traditionalists are by nature disinterested in ‘sexing up’ their wines for the market, for immediate gains, preferring to make incremental improvements over a longer period, beginning in the vineyard. Meanwhile the modernists look bent on promoting their name/brand, perhaps even over that of the region; the consultant’s (or importer’s!) hand carefully concealed.

At least there’s some traction among the volcanic hills of the Alto Piemonte, benefiting the region and Nebbiolo as a whole. Yet there appears to be much work to be done in the vineyard along with a tightening-up in cantina before the zone can truly claim to be the ‘Côte Rotie of Piedmont’!

Among the high spots were the ‘Long Lunch’, a sort of mini Paulée held at the Hong Kong Cricket Club, who supplied a match to watch to boot. However we spent more time concentrating on the wines than on the cricket, generous guests bringing bottles from Lafon, Blain-Gagnard, Vougeraie, Roumier, Grivot, de Montille, Rossignol-Trapet, Perrot-Minot, Cathiard, Rémy, Fourrier, Dugat-Py and more.

The key will be to encourage appreciation right across the range and this should be possible. Wines such as Sylvain Loichet’s Ladoix Bois de Gréchon have found favour already, and good quality Bourgogne Rouge is being snapped up. As we expected, the learning curve develops frighteningly quickly.

We did many more wine events this year with Cantonese food which is a stimulating development. I like the idea of having lots of bottles open on the table so you can grab a sip of whichever one might please you with whichever nibble of dim sum or peking duck catches your fancy. Dishes which I really enjoyed this week included braised pomelo skins and some baby roast pigeon. Apparently I was just too late for seasonal snake soup.

The 2011 Loire vintage was shaped, as elsewhere in Europe, by the unusually warm and dry spring that signalled an early harvest. This was compounded in the Loire by the lack of a preceding winter; Sancerrois David Sautereau remarked that there were no frost days during this period, compared with twenty-five the previous year. Consequently Sancerre’s ‘ban de vendange’ (official start date) came on 1^st Sept, after a cool and damp July/August that threatened to upset the party with outbreaks of rot. The Caslots in Bourgueil commenced on the 15^th Sept, versus 1^st Oct in 2010. For Nöel Pinguet at Gaston Huet, harvesting on the 27^th Sept. was an unprecedented early start but proved fortuitous in his (US owners) quest for drier Vouvray – something that’s he’s finding harder to come by these days. A fine, warm September facilitated fermentations to dryness, especially for those departing from the norm in using wild yeast (i.e. already present in the winery) as opposed to cultured. Acidities are generally on the low side making the pretty wines delicious in the early to medium term, without the grip or zip of the 2010s, but still fresh thanks to the cool summer. Yields are normal, certainly above the small, sun-tanned crop of the 2009 vintage.

There was much excitement at Domaine de la Chevalerie where the fourteenth generation Caslot, Stéphanie proudly unveiled the family’s new ‘baby’: Bourgueil cru ‘Grand-Mont’. The 38 ha estate is located at Restigné, twelve kilometres from the river Loire on a gently rising bench of sand, clay and limestone; the vineyards facing south/south-east and are protected from the ‘vent du nord’ by an immense forest. They’re also blessed with 1.5 km of chalk cellars under the property; indeed the perfect place to raise a ‘newborn’. Grand-Mont is located in Benais, the next-door village, and judging by the taste of both the 2009 and 2010 vintages, wines showing an intricate weave and withering charm that leave you groping for words. Qualities enhanced no doubt by the family’s commitment to organic viticulture (Ecocert certified since 2006) and now towards biodynamics; a crowning wine for their stable of true, elegant Cabernet Francs. Rest assured: you won’t find a micro-ox machine, a packet of cultured yeast, nor a thermovinificator (read ‘microwave’) in their cellar! No, the secret seems to lie in father Pierre’s encouragement behind his two children, Stéphanie and Emmanuel; that they should take the estate to greater heights.

Another young blood making strides is fifth generation winegrower Nicolas Paget, former concert jazz trumpeter, now calling the shots at the family’s 16 ha estate close to Azay-le-Rideau. From ‘making wine’ in 2001 Nicolas is now learning to ‘create wine’; switching his attention from the winery to the vine, as he believes that if the fruit ripe and healthy then there less to do in the winery – he says it’s not something they taught him at wine-school! Like the conductor of an orchestra, Nicolas’s re-arranging his vines so they play in unison. Hence there’s more emphasis on Chenin Blanc; greater use of ‘selection masale’ plant material rather than clones; more common sense (such as tying the young vines over to force the roots down). He’s on the right track, judging by his apply pure Chenin Blanc ‘Melodie’, pretty Touraine Sparkling Rose ‘Syncopette’, and crunchy Chinon ‘Ferdinand’. More controversially he doesn’t believe in ‘minerality’, a comment he let fly just as I was leaving the winery!

‘Minerality’ is surely the holy grail of fine wine, signposting a wine’s superior (limestone) provenance, its terroir and quality, imparting linearity, ‘droiteur’, and grip! When it comes to tasting notes I admit to be one of its over-users; its inclusion implying a low pH wine made from a reasonable yield, giving a decent level of dry extract, along with a capacity to age. I revel in the thrilling expression of mineral wines, whether they be from Chablis, Barolo, the Mosel or the Wachau. Of course it’s a quality I associate with the Loire, notably Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé… yet Nicolas’s comment left me feeling I may have missed something. A word with his agent Charles Sydney, the voice of the Loire for many of the UK trade and resident of Chinon, revealed that many of Nicolas’s generation are confusing lean, green fruit (i.e higher acidity) with ‘minerality’. There is also the question over ‘flinty’ reductive aromas that can arise at the end of the (Sauvignon Blanc) ferment, when sulphur is added (sloppily) to block the malo.

Surprising also is how they pick in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume. Since the 1980s, when the region grew exponentially, it’s been largely done using machine-harvesters, that ‘caress’ the grapes into bins dosed with dry ice to preserve aromas (a trick from the new world). You would think, going back to Nicolas’s point about the quality of the fruit at harvest, that a fine wine zone such as Sancerre would take the trouble to hand-harvest, to capture those delicate aromatics and so limit the need for carbon and sulphur dioxide intervention in the winery. I suspect that the reason for such machines lie somewhere between cost, practicality and the demands of the market. Very few producers seem to deviate from the norm – where’s the next François Cotat I ask myself – even if the norm can be a bit dull. For example wild yeast fermentation is akin to the occult – a few doing it on the side only to blend the evidence away at bottling. ‘There’s no market in wild yeast fermented labels, unlike organic’ is how one put it. I’m proud to say that Berrys’ new 2010 wild yeast ferment Sancerre, as made by David Sautereau, clearly expresses its kimmeridgean clay provenance to its full, and not a cat peeing in sight!

From the Loire I dropped down to Lyon to attend the fair ‘Vin Passion’, at which circa 40 producers (largely French and Italian) showed and sold their wines to a thirsty public. The common theme was one of organic fruit, along with the ever present tribe of ‘natural wine’ producers. The ‘natural wine’ movement has become popular in France and Italy, built on the premise (fear) that added sulphur dioxide is an unnecessary additive; that wine effectively makes itself, producing sufficient sulphur dioxide as a by-product. While excesses should be avoided, the proof of the tasting was that too many producers allow ideology to get in the way of prudent winemaking, resulting in many wines that appeared spoiled. Hear what Alsace producer Lucas Rieffel, producer of a Pinot Noir ‘Nature’ has to say on the subject…

2011 was a fantastic year in our calendar as we played host to a wide range of wine ‘A-listers’ (far too many to list in full!). The top Cru Classé Châteaux of Bordeaux were well-represented by such names as Ch. Pontet-Canet, Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou, Branaire-Ducru and Ch. Gruaud-Larose; we also had the good fortune to enjoy a stunning vertical tasting of Barsacs from Ch. Climens. Burgundy, Alsace, Champagne, the Loire and the Rhône were not neglected either, with guests like Patrice Rion, Etienne Hugel, Champagne Jacquesson, François Cotat, Bollinger, René Rostaing and Ch. La Nerthe to name but a few. From Spain we welcomed the great Juan Carlos Lopez de Lacaille and the legendary Alvaro Palacios, from the Port region the Symington Family, from Italy the lovely Stella di Campalto with her exquisite Brunello di Montalcino, and from the island of Madeira we hosted Ricardo de Freitas of the house of Barbeito. As Madeira is a wine very dear to my heart, I took the opportunity to ask Ricardo that evening what makes Madeira unique, and to tell us a little about his own winemaking philosophy:

2012 promises an equally exciting line-up of visitors. Fittingly the first visit of the year will be from the venerable Madeira house, Blandys, who will be showcasing on 30th January an enviable selection of fine Madeiras going all the way back to 1877 – a rare treat! Then in March we will welcome Alexandra Petit and Paul Pontallier as our guests from illustrious First Growth Ch. Margaux, whose silky, elegant clarets need no introduction; they are the epitome of class and a personal favourite of my own. Top Burgundian producer Domaine de la Vougeraie will visit to show us their stunning reds and whites, and there will also be the chance to go slightly off France’s beaten track with a visit from Domaine Pichard of Madiran in the South West, who are bringing a selection of mature vintages of this wonderfully savoury and complex red. Italy will be represented by Badia a Coltibuono from Chianti and Giovanni Rosso from Barolo, Spain by the magnificent traditional bodega Viña Tondonia, and Germany by Selbach Oster’s elegant Mosel Rieslings. The New World will not be overlooked, with the warm and charismatic David Ramey from California sharing his incredibly concentrated yet elegant Chardonnays.

There are many more I could mention, but why don’t you check out for yourselves the full line-up of our fabulous events? In the absence of that impending lottery win and round-the-world wine ticket, there is no substitute for coming to the Cellars at No. 3 St James’s Street to meet face-to-face the men and women responsible for bringing to our tables this amazing drink which, as we wine-lovers know, is so much more than just a beverage. Come and learn ‘from the winemaker’s mouth’.

The dry spell had imbued the wines with impressive concentration, the warm weather in September had brought the grapes to perfect ripeness, and the relatively cool August nights had helped to preserve their vital acidity. All was in place, therefore, to create a glorious vintage for both white and red wines.

The Rhône growers with whom we work are not people prone to hyperbole, preferring to keep their feet on the ground, recognising full well the ups and downs which are part and parcel of the life of anyone who works in viticulture. Nevertheless, it was hard not to delight in their quiet confidence as they showed us their wines, and each successive visit unearthed the opinion that this was, just maybe, the finest vintage in the region for decades.

The comparison with 2009, another outstanding vintage, was fascinating because of the stylistic differences; 2009 was a year of wonderful opulence, the sheer ripeness producing richly-textured wines with immediate appeal; 2010 seems more cerebral, appealing because of its sublime balance, concentration and, crucially, its freshness. Time after time my tasting notes mentioned these attributes, along with intensity. Never did I find myself using words such as ‘heavy’ ‘ponderous’ ‘over-oaked’ or ‘unbalanced’. The wines are also highly representative of their terroir, and in that context it’s a joy to pick out the nuances which define a Cornas from a Côte Rôtie, a St Joseph from a Crozes-Hermitage.

Yields are in most cases slightly down on 2009, partly because of the drought, but fear not, there will be plenty of good wine to go round, and don’t overlook the whites, too. The huge progress in recent years in the quality of the region’s white wines continues apace. The aromatic varietals display wonderful floral, stone-fruit characteristics, while the wines made predominantly or totally from the Marsanne grape boast the textural richness of White Burgundy allied to a honeyed, beeswax bouquet.

It is unusual to find the North and South both declaring a truly great vintage at the same time, and although we don’t have prices yet all the early indications are that the growers, recognising the realities of the global market, will broadly favour stability, which is reassuring.

Alun Griffiths MW

No matter how much theory you read about a certain wine region or grape variety, the best way to learn about wine is to taste it. This might seem like an obvious thing to say, but knowing that Chablis lies on Kimmeridgian clay won’t necessarily help you choose a wine to accompany your grilled salmon, whereas remembering the crisp minerality on the last Chablis you tasted will.

Here are my two top tips for getting the most out of tasting and comparing wines at home…

1) Compare and contrast. This is a great way to learn as it allows you to benchmark one style against another and help your palate ‘remember’. If you’re new to the game, start with wines that are quite different in style; the more you practise, the better you will get at picking out subtle nuances and can then progress to comparing wines from the same region (e.g. different villages from Burgundy or Bordeaux). I would suggest that you start by comparing an oaked Chardonnay with an unoaked one, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with a French one like a Sancerre, or a Californian Pinot Noir with a Pinot from Burgundy.

2) Remember that climate is key to wine style. The cooler the climate, the higher the acidity (the component in wine which gives it a refreshing, mouthwatering effect). The warmer the climate, the riper the flavours in the wine. Comparing wines from different climates (e.g. a warm climate like California versus a cooler climate like Burgundy) will allow you to get better at recognising the different styles and where they are found.

The above tips are a great way to start as they will help you with the most important aspect of wine tasting – finding out what you personally like to drink. Our palates are all different and each one of you will have unique impressions of every wine that you taste. I caught up with a few of our customers who attended our ‘Introduction to Burgundy Tutored Tasting’ and the ‘Sweet Dreams, Sweet Wines Tutored Tasting’ in the run up to Christmas to find out their personal thoughts on the events…

Wine tasting is a hobby that not only will teach you an enormous amount about the fascinatingly diverse regions of the world where wine is made, but will also give you immense pleasure! So if you’ve resolved that 2012 will be a year to learn new skills, why not make wine tasting one of them?

For more information about our tutored tastings and wine school events please visit our website.

Yet there’s still a chance that this Cinderella may get to go to the ball. With three excellent vintages (2009, 2010 and 2011) under its belt there has been a lot of positive press about the region, indicating a potential opportunity for significant growth in the UK. Not only that, but there’s a dynamic wave of new-generation growers and winemakers whose mantra is quality rather than quantity. They’re embracing organic and biodynamic viticulture and exploring different winemaking techniques. It’s an exciting time.

So how best can Beaujolais recapture the hearts of British wine-drinkers? There are many avenues of potential, which we just need to be reminded of. The low tannins of Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages styles have always made them ideal alternatives to white wine, as they can be lightly chilled – so even in winter, don’t forget about this option. Then there are the ‘Cru’ wines. These ten villages in the north of the region have the right to call their wines simply by the name of each village and indeed most of their labels make no mention of Beaujolais at all, so a bit of insider’s knowledge goes a long way. This is the part of the region most closely modelled on Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, but thankfully rarely with the prices to match, so consider the Crus if you’re a Burgundy lover but don’t want to bust the budget every time you open a bottle. Terroir is key, with more and more single-vineyard bottlings showcasing the nuances between different sites. Oak is often used to age the wines, and with more structure than the other styles these wines can age, acquiring deliciously savoury Pinot Noir-like characteristics with maturity.

As in the Côte d’Or, the producer is absolutely key so make sure you choose carefully to be guaranteed a top-notch wine. Domaine Michel Chignard make one of my absolute favourites from Fleurie, elegant yet concentrated or for a more robust, earthy style consider a village like Morgon – Grange Cochard’s single-vineyard Côte de Py http://www.bbr.com/product-83564B-2010-morgon-cote-du-py-chateau-grange-cochard is an excellent example. If you can resist the vivacious, charming fruit of these 2010s (I certainly struggle!) then do your very best to lay some down for a few years as you will be amply rewarded. Whilst you wait, experiment with one of the lighter lesser-known Crus like Régnié from top grower Julien Sunier. Try Cru Beaujolais with white meat or even game dishes depending on the robustness of the individual style. Brilliant.

As you can see, I think there’s a lot of potential for this much-maligned and vastly under-rated wine. Will it be Belle of the Ball in 2012? Watch this space…

The phrase about Englishmen and their castles hung in the air as we wound up lengthy drives towards imposing castelli, owned often by Marquises and Counts, their hunting dogs and helps scurrying between vast, draughty halls. Such a setting, I could see, would strike a chord with homesick Brits, gazing up at these fortresses, rich in heraldry, noble pride and cobwebs; their largely not-for-profit viticultural activities propped up by EU subsidies, preserving an ancient feudal landscape… for now.

Each visit a lesson in history it seemed (and don’t we Brits just love a story!) For Bibbiano it goes back to the Romans, to AD 200-300 when all the ‘-anos’ were conceived (Bibbiano Lilliano, Cacchiano etc..). The Bibbiano estate then passed through the church and into the hands of the Marrocchesi Marzi family during the 19^th century. During the last war, the family domain, perched high up on a ridge near the Classico village of Castellina in Chianti, was occupied by a small troop of Germans who apparently held up the American advance for a month, holed up inside the main house.

Badia a Coltibuono, whose stunning abbey (‘Badia’) lies high in the Chianti hills, was very much the archetypal polycultural estate dating back to the 11^th century, whose management were the monks of the Vallombrosan Order. Their agriculture combined forestry (chestnuts grown on the north facing slopes, oak the south) with animal husbandry. Later, with Napoleonic secularization in the early 19^th century the estate was then bought by the current owners, the Stucchi Prinetti family; now based in Florence.

Indeed, whereas most of our Italian suppliers ‘live above the shop’, their homes set among the vines, the Tuscans, like many of the Bordelais, are, to a man, owned by absentee landlords. With their homes in Firenze or Siena, and their money-making businesses in Roma, these country estates are an escape; a place to reconnect with their roots. No surprise then, as on the Gironde, it’s also a wine consultant’s paradise, for better or for worse.

Compared to the small plots common to Piemonte (c. 3ha), estates are impressively large in Chianti. Of the five we visited, four weighed in at over 200 hectares; Badia a Coltibuono the largest at 700 hectares. And while the Piemontese grow grapes on virtually every scrap of land, in Tuscany viticultural is very much only a part of their existence. Badia a Coltibuono now plough a 21^st century variant of polyculturalism: producing wine, olive oil while managing a restaurant, an agriturismo (B&B), and a cookery course. Castello di Ama now seems as famous for its collection of modern art as it is for its avant-garde wines.

Little wonder then that these Tuscan estates draw parallels with those of Bordeaux (and Piedmont to Burgundy), and finds favour with English palates. The brick red colour, light bodied wines favoured by traditional Chianti Classico estates such as Bibbiano, Badia a Coltibuono and Villa Calcinaia for example, would seem to reflect an Englishman’s preferred (‘clairet’) style of wine, where freshness, modest alcohol levels and drinkability are important. Fashion has, as we know, played a heavier hand in the way wines have been made ever since Tignanello first came out with a 100% Sangiovese in 1975, ostensibly for the US market; Castello di Ama following up with the coveted if controversial 100% Merlot wine ‘L’Apparita’ in 1985. Yet one sip of Bibbiano’s brilliant 1980 Chianti Classico, a field blend of Sangiovese, Caniolo, Malvasia Nera and Trebbiano Bianco clearly showed that their forefathers knew what they were doing; as from vintage 2006 no more white grapes may officially be added to Chianti Classico, yet with climate change and a sign that consumers are tired of heavily extracted, fashionable wines perhaps a rethink is called for!

And what an honour to be invited to meet Signor Giulio Gambelli at home. Gambelli, ‘the godfather of Sangiovese’ and master assaggiatore (taster, not consultant!) has had an unprecedented influence on some of the region’s noblest wines (Poggio di Sotto, Montevertine, Soldera…). Since he was a young man in 1942, Signor Gambelli has been a welcome visitor to the Bibbiano estate, not just for the hunt, but also for his cuttings of prized Sangiovese Grosso; grapes that now find their way into their single vineyard Riserva ‘Vigna del Capannino’.

Too late now, the offer has gone to the printers and will land on doorsteps throughout the land in time for the new campaign to kick off on Wednesday 4th January. Then the fur will fly because the wines are exceptional in 2010 but there is very little volume compared to last year. Delicious reds in a classic style, with excellent balance between fruit, acidity and tannins. The whites are also mostly very impressive, generous wines with good acidity, while Chablis is superb.

Jasper Morris MW

This grand Event did have a rocky evolution. Poor Big Si The Wine Guy was down to host but had to pass the baton onto me (tough life), and then 24 hours before Frederic Engerer (the genius behind Latour’s incredible run in the modern era) had to urgently fly back to Bordeaux as well. I had a feeling the event was cursed and all the bottles would end up corked! Fortunately we had the perfect replacements in Jean Garandeau (Ch. Latour’s Sales and Marketing Director) and Jeremy Quievre (Latour’s Asia Representative) – who were both at Amber hours before decanting and fine tuning the evening with more detail and tactical acumen than Sir Alex.

Now in truth I have not tasted much Latour – certainly not mature Latour. Most of my experience has come at en primeur tastings where I have annually awarded Latour wine of the vintage – YET have not been able to really understand what these immature beasts will mature into. Well the stars were aligned and together with 16 Berrys’ customers, it was my night to find out! To kick things off – the pre-match warm up – was the 2003 and 2000 Forts de Latour. Pre-match warm up is VERY harsh as these are stunning wines in their own right and certainly at Second Growth level. What shone through here was the contrast in vintages. 2003 (16.5pts) all bells and whistles and little bit tarty – and I was not sure about the life expectancy. For me the 2000 (17pts) had the edge – cooler more structured and with a self assured certainty to it. Jean described the contrast perfectly, comparing 2003 to Marilyn Monroe and 2000 to Audrey Hepburn. I described the contrast as Katie Price to Angelina Jolie… I think that says a little more about me than the wines.

It was then time to fasten the seat belt and go through a flight of the Grand Vin. Starting at the 2001 and finishing at 1966 – stopping off at the legends that are 1996, 1990, 1982 and an under the radar vintage that is 1970. The 2001 (18pts) was a great way to start “a proper vintage” as a guest next to me suggested. It certainly had a cool menthol feel to it, that is in contrast to some of the more flamboyant vintages we have experienced recently. Although it was showing well this still has a very long life ahead to it. 1996 (19.99pts!) is pretty much as good as claret gets for me – still so young, with just a hint of some tertiary aromas starting to come through. A brooding monster that is in perfect harmony. Jean described the 1996 as a perfectly balanced orchestra – he is bang on the money. For me, this is a more polished version of 1982. Simply stunning and a privilege to drink. Anyone that has a case should lock it up for another twenty years and then brace themselves for utopia!

The 1996 was a tough act to follow, however the 1990 (18.5pts) did this with great style. Far more giving than many 1990’s I have encountered of late and this was a real crowd pleaser on the night. It perhaps lacks the backbone of 1996 or 1982 but hey that is being very picky on a stunning wine. The 1996 is your Franz Beckenbaur vs. The 1990 being the Johan Cruyff perhaps. We then came to the 1982 (19.99pts)… oh the 82…. WHAT A WINE. The nose and palate attacked my senses like no other on the night. Mesmerising. Still so youthful, still so much vigour. I read a tasting note from Neal Martin later that night that summed the wine up perfectly – a magnificent monster. The textured layers of fruit kept on enveloping out, it just went on and on. I still believe the 1996 might, just might, better this, but again this is clutching at straws and in truth who cares. This is like Denman vs. Kauto Star, Federer vs. Nadal – just marvel at the beauty of both. For the record 1982 must simply Pele!

After I went to the washroom for a gentle sob and to thank the man upstairs – it was time for the 1970 (17.5pts) and reading a certain Mr Parker’s reviews, one might have been a little underwhelmed by this – particularly after what preceded. Well not a bit. This was gorgeous – not like the blockbusters beforehand but a wine that just seemed perfectly comfortable to reveal all and not pretending to be anything it is not. Lighter secondary aromas with gorgeous tobacco and truffled notes. This reminded more of your favourite most trusted comfy old chair – it may not look that good but you cannot help but love it. Finally after 3hrs and 45 min we hit the final wine of the evening the 1966 (18pts) – a wine with a huge reputation. Well it did not disappoint – more rustic than the 1982, 1990 and 1996 but far more aggressive and deeper than the 1970. So much power to this wine still and a touch of wild about the tannins. What a way to finish what was one of the greatest nights of my life. Thanks so much to Richard Ekkebus and the team at Amber – although I mention nothing of the food – it was stunning and balanced perfectly against the wines. If you have not been to Amber – make a point to get a reservation as it is up there as Hong Kong’s best.

Sometimes I find blogs just a little self indulgent – its more about the writer than the content. I hope – just hope that I have done a little bit of justice to these simply stunning wines from this magnificent Chateau. Anyone that owns a case of young Ch. Latour (or Forts for that matter) from any of the recent string of great vintages – rest assured, you will also have the just to feel closer to god!