Now, I don’t know how much business actually gets done at this event, and given the hustle, bustle and bruises I have on my arm from being barged to and fro, I would think not much can get done at all! However this is not the point. This event is all about networking, talking and finding out about what is going on in the wine world at present. For the Bordelaise this was a particularly important week (certainly judging by the amount of negociants present), as this was their chance to gauge whether the Asian market is a strong and as healthy as being touted by every man and his dog. The good news for them (and the bad news for us), is that they will go home with very large grins. The buzz words for the week were ‘2009’ and ‘En Primeur’, and the huge attendance at the 2007 UGC (Union des Grand Cru) Tasting  will no doubt confirm what was being hoped for in Bordeaux. Demand will far outstrip the quantity that will be drip fed from the Medoc. PRICES WILL BE HIGH HIGH HIGH!

For Berrys’ part we tried to give proprietors and friends some welcome solace from the cauldron of Vinexpo and offered some lunch in the beautiful and serene setting of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club on a daily basis (right). Much more relaxed chat was involved here, where talking about the politics of 2009 was not on the agenda. In fact, one of my highlights of the week was being sat next to the genial Alsace winemaker André Ostertag and listening to his passionate views on wine growing.

After these lunches was when the hard work was done for me, walking the ‘Bordeaux strip’ at the Exhibition Centre with my colleague Max (Bordeaux Buyer, who was in HK for his first time…. he won’t forget it!), chatting, listening and shaking hands with the right people. On the Thursday afternoon in particular Max was in his element, with myself on one side and my colleague Rufus on the other (both 6ft blondes so to speak – see top left), it looked like he had a couple of Russian bodyguards looking after him (granted I’m built like Rodney Trotter not Arnie). It was almost like walking through the Wet Market in Wanchai, a blast to the senses where you need to take in a lot of information in a short amount of time.

Well, what was needed after all this was a nice cruise on the harbour… and BBR delivered! Come Thursday night the aptly named ‘Grand Cru’ sailed out into the open sea with a plethora of the movers and shakers in the wine world (Bordeaux orientated, I’ll be honest!), for an evening cruise (see me above with Max and Laurent Delassus from Mähler-Besse). Champagne was flowing and it was exactly what everyone needed after three days on their feet. Sporting my new pinstripe suit from Roger the Tailor, I don’t think I’ll ever feel so much like James Bond again (above left – think the comical Roger Moore rather than the suave Mr. Connery).

As I write this and after a detoxifying weekend, Vinexpo seems a long time ago already. The dust has settled; however I am strapping myself in for an even bigger hurricane which is about hit. I have a feeling that in the next few days, the Bordelaise may get the party started and En Primeur will shift gear. All I know is that after last week, they know there is a queue round the corner to get into the 2009 party and by gee they will make sure the entrance fee isn’t cheap!

Walking into Mr Zhang’s jaw dropping cellar, containing some US$2 million worth of fine wine, what immediately struck me was not what he’s got but more what he hasn’t…there’s not a bottle of Lafite in sight! Lafite, is without doubt the default luxury wine in China at the moment and is unfortunately often consumed as a status symbol rather than out of any love for the wine itself, so meeting collectors like Mr Zhang offers a glimmer of hope for a more varied and interesting fine wine landscape in China.

Mr Zhang is a Burgundy nut, and over two years has garnered an intimidating knowledge of the region – those of you who appreciate how complex Burgundy is will know this achievement is not to be sniffed at.

He pulled a bottle of 04 Morgeot Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard Rouge, and I listened to him talk. Mr Zhang told me that he loves Pinot Noir because it is “飘piao” (a Chinese term which makes it’s English equivalent “elegant” seem positively clumsy) and that he finds its varying expressions from different Burgundian terroirs fascinating – at this point I’m pinching myself, how the hell has this guy got to this point in two years!?

He loves to open a few bottles and pour three glasses of each to study their evolution throughout the day, (again pinching myself). He informs me that this meticulous and slightly clinical approach to his drinking belies his background as a chemist, although as we polished off the Morgeot it became clear that he is able to just enjoy as well.

Mr Zhang, while definitely one of the more impressive Burgundy fans I’ve met out here, is, I’m glad to report, by no means alone and Pinot Noir seems to be cropping up all over the place. However interest is also not just limited to the reds: I was recently fortunate enough to try a 1982 Montrachet Ramonet and a 1989 Montrachet DRC, (thank you Windy and thank you Karl!) both of which were stunning.

A friend has even started making a Pinot Noir in Xi’an (in central China). This vineyard should be something to keep an eye on for the future, who knows, it might not be long until the Chinese are not only drinking great Pinot Noirs but also making them! But more on that at a later date…

Rufus is Berrys’ representative in Shanghai, China

It was an incredibly serene week’s tasting, with the Médoc like a ghost town after the carnival atmosphere of weeks before, perfect for dissecting the fact from fiction! A lot has been written about the 2009s already (not least from Simon Staples), so there is no point going over old ground, in short Médoc is where the action is and there are some absolute legends. Hype is being generated on two fronts this year; there is the expected interested in what is undoubtedly an incredible vintage, however, there is also considerable hype about the demand coming from Asia, and China in particular. Now as I have been here for little over four months I am not an old pro in this neck of the woods, however I can give my honest observations based on the feedback our sales team are getting to see whether this hype is overblown – and the Bordelais spin doctors are at work (they make Alastair Campbell look soft!).

Interest is huge, there is no doubt about this, with awareness of what Bordeaux and en-primeur is all about far greater than previous campaigns (so says my boss Nick Pegna). We have had more wish-lists sent from Asian-based clients than ever before, with far more coming from the mainland (no doubt aided by our translation on the website). The key is what these wish-lists consist of….is it just Lafite??? Well the answer is no. For sure we have many that ask for purely the top wines, but hey, I got that back in the UK as well! However what I have seen is that there is far more depth to wish-lists and interest in lesser châteaux than I was expecting. I would say that Pontet, Lynch and the Leovilles have appeared on these lists as much as any of the Lafite brands (granted these wines are certainly not lesser in my mind!). So this is a good thing, yes, and so far these wish-lists have been backed up by great sales on recent releases such as d’Angludet and our Liquid Gold Mixed case.

So all is good and the hype is true. However there may be some grey clouds on the horizon if we are not careful and a few key factors that we need to take care of. Firstly the pricing on the 09s – well we know they are going to be punchy don’t we (as Sauternes releases have shown us!). After the perceived deals of 2008 (which are still out there), the Bordealais know they have something special and Mr Parker has added diesel onto what is already an inferno (not his fault I add-he gives his honest view of a vintage). However with Europe in meltdown (such mighty Empires good old blighty and Greece once were), it would not be wise for the proprietors to be short-sighted. I have no doubt that the Asian market will buy 2009 … in a big way! But in the long run it would not be wise to get to carried away pricing up the wines, as one thing I have definitely learnt in Hong Kong is that consumers like to feel that they get value for money and will pay top price accordingly to what they perceive as quality (like everywhere really). Yes the market is willing to pay top bill for things IF it is quality they are buying and, if in the scheme of things, it is a fair price. Come when the wines are physically in Asia, if all and sundry have bought 09s at very high opening prices and perhaps the price hasn’t moved much, there will be many-a-client in these waters asking why they outlaid all their money two years ago, when they could have left it in the bank (perhaps not UK banks), earned some interest and bought the same wines at a comparable price. Suddenly buying en-primeur does not look so enticing to the Asian market! In truth I believe that prices will be high and unfortunately the top wines will then escalate in price until they are comparable to ‘05 and ‘00.

My second worry is more with the way the wine scene will evolve in Hong Kong and China. As I’ve mentioned, knowledge and awareness is increasing at a rapid rate, however there is still (despite wishlists!) this “Lafite effect”. Demand for the über brands is sky high and I’ll be honest, you don’t have to be an experienced wine merchant to sell Lafite. Every merchant and their dog has moved to HK in the last five years with their telescopes firmly set North, salivating at what China has to offer. Some might be so bold as to call it the Wild East of the wine trade, everyone wants to hit gold-cowboy country! Now, if we continue to harvest the Lafite effect, it will be no good for anyone. In the short-term prices will continue to rocket and the bubble will expand until eventually it pops! However, as established, trustworthy winemerchants/brokers from the UK we should be the ones helping to expand, evolve and sow the seed for this burgeoning interest in wine. We can harvest from the same field but eventually that field will run bare. If we do things right, the Asian market will continue to expand and will be even stronger and more powerful in years to come. If we lose the market’s trust then who knows…

Well back to 09, for what it is worth, this is what I will be buying if pricing is sensible and I can find another interest free credit card…

Latour…. if I sell a kidney. my golf clubs and the wine I already have I may be able afford it, but then there will be the trouble of finding a case! The greatest wine of this vintage for me. There was a tear running down my eye tasting. A monolithic beauty of epic proportions.

Leoville Las-Cases… If I sell another body part. The most electrifying and brooding Las-Cases I have tasted EP.

Haut-Bailly… Perhaps better than 05. Very pure.

Grand-Puy-Lacoste: Understated, pure class.

Haut-Bages Libéral… Could be the value of 09.

Ch. Batailley… Just got sexy!

Les Forts de Latour… More realistic purchase then the Grand Vin… just!

Les Pagodes de Cos… tastes more like Cos than Cos.

Croix de Beaucaillou… A real surprise. The Grand Vin was very stylish.

Brane-Cantenac…. Best I have tasted EP here.

Conseillante… Ooh lah lah. A Pomerol for Burgundy lovers. Smoother than George Clooney.

Figeac… Stunning, best I have tasted.

Pavillon Rouge… More cabernet than usual and an absolute stunner. Mr Pontallier says best Pavillon yet, I won’t argue with a legend.

That is a long list and I will need a few more winners at Happy Valley before I can afford half!

Those lucky enough to receive an invitation were treated to delicious canapés from head Chef Neil Tomes’ kitchen and a sumptuous  array of drinks and cocktails including several based on our own King’s Ginger liqueur. The great and the good of Hong Kong were all in attendance. Those spotted included actor and singer Wu Chun (we suspect a considerable portion of the fans outside were his), Simon Yam, the Hong Kong actor and film producer who recently won Best Actor Award at the Hong Kong Film Awards for his role in the historic film, Echoes of The Rainbow, and artist William Chan (all pictured above).

Now I’ll go back to the start… when I first arrived in Honkers I was expecting to be drinking a fair bit of Bordeaux, with a smidgen of Burgundy on the side, as there is no doubt this is where the focus is in this part of world.  However, a few weeks in and there I am at dinner with a good friend in the trade here, and what is standing in front of me but a 2001 Barolo from a producer that I have never heard of that he has brought along.  I have to be honest, I was a little dismayed at first as I had fairly substantial prime cut of beef that was about to be served to me that was begging for…well… a bottle of Claret!

I did have an Italian fad five or so years ago when I was drinking nothing but the wines of Tuscany and Piedmont (whilst watching the Sopranos)… this fad culminated in a rather emotional hug with Angelo Gaja (in white chinos and snake-skin belt, left) at his winery in Barbaresco – something I am sure David Berry Green still remembers with a certain dismay. But I haven’t really drunk much in the way of Barolo, Brunello or Amarone for some time.

What I am coming to is that as the palate meanders new paths, and different styles and tastes, so you often forget about the paths once tasted – this is certainly the case with me!  The first few sniffs were a little muted but time in glass and aeration was the key to releasing the gorgeous and subtle intensity of the nose.  The classic bouquet of scorched earth, rose petal and tar were all there, with the palate pure and intense with rapier like acid balancing out the sweetness of tannins… ooh la la… I was in love with Barolo again!  It was actually reminiscent of a 2000 Burgundy, a vintage drinking beautifully in its youth and offering such lovely aromatics.  I’m not sure if it is built like a classic vintage but, by gee, it is charming now. To be honest, I am not sure if the wine actually complemented the slab of meat on my plate, I can’t even tell you if my steak was good either, I was too busy reminding myself what I have been missing for so long.

We all have our favourites but, for most wine lovers, our tastes and fads come and go and that is what is so blooming great about wine.  Trust me, in a few months I’ll be back on the Bordeaux bandwagon… or, who knows, back to enjoying the power of a Priorat or the freshness and zing of a Mosel Kabinett.  The lesson I have learnt is that it is good to retrace old steps from time to time and to shift gears – it makes wine so much more enjoyable.  I saw a great t-shirt whilst running on Bowen Road (one of the only flat runs in HK!) yesterday, that said “a rolling stone gathers no moss”, and I feel it sort of sums up what I mean in a lose way.  Keep trying different wines, experimenting with regions that you have never heard of, and retracing those old steps as the vintages and your palate develops.  The more you taste, the more you understand and appreciate wines that you may have not enjoyed before; wine is something you can never know to much about!  Variety gives you the energy, enthusiasm and passion to try more.  If you stick to the same old wines all the time perhaps you forget to appreciate what makes even these wines you drink so special, and you take them for granted and perhaps lose your passion for what’s in the bottle… and well… you stop rolling and gather that moss.

The only downside to this is that I have got a bit carried away trying a few older vintages and back filling my cellar with 2001, 2004 and 2005 Barolo and Barbaresco…and now I have no money for 2009 Bordeaux…not a happy chap!

We are delighted to announce our collaboration with Alfred Dunhill at the new Hong Kong Home of Alfred Dunhill in Prince’s Building. Berrys has created a Fine Wine Reserve providing, we anticipate, exemplary levels of service and fine wine expertise alongside dunhill’s signatory attention to detail, all in the heart of Central. The Home will also feature a new destination restaurant and Bar, Alfie’s by KEE, serving a menu of honest British fare and an inimitable wine list compiled in consultation with Berrys.

The Fine Wine Reserve itself will carry an extraordinary range of wines, as well as offering the unsurpassed expertise that we have gathered from our 11 years in Hong Kong and 312 years in the UK.

The synergy between the dunhill and Berrys’ brands is immediately apparent when delving into the archives; with both companies sharing much common ground. We both have our geographical origins in St. James’s, however, the true affinity lies in our philosophies. As well as a shared heritage and insistence on the very best, both companies truly understand the importance of tradition and integrity, whilst being constantly – and sometimes radically – innovative, of not just striving to meet customers’ expectations but exceeding them.

Pictures of the new store will be posted shortly. In the meantime we hope that you’ll enjoy these pictures of the traditional Lion Dance which marked the grand opening last Monday. The highly acrobatic spectacle was performed as a ceremony to exorcise evil spirits and to summon luck and fortune for the new venture.

We look forward to welcoming you there!

Now without doubt the best and cheapest tourist attraction in HK is the Star Ferry, and in particular the trip from the island (Wan Chai or Central) to Kowloon. At night this trip really comes alive, as you marvel at the neon clad, skyscraper jungle that is Hong Kong island’s skyline (above…picture not taken by me!) All for under fifty pence… cheap as chips! I think I’ve put a stone on in weight and I’ve only “cooked in” once. But eh… the variety of food in HK is incredible, whether you like your Tapas or Michelin Starred modern French. You can spend as much or as little as you want, and for me, engrossing myself in the local grub is what it is all about. My use of chopsticks is getting better by the day (it needed to!) and I’m now regularly enjoying such treats as Chickens’ Feet, ducks’ tongues and frogs’ glands! In seriousness the local Cantonese cuisine is just amazing, with so many different textures and flavours that I’m just not used to. Hence the new tyre round my belly! The Staff Yum Cha Lunches are a highlight of the week, though my colleagues Jenny Wee and Debbie Yeung still have to tell me exactly what I am eating.

Probably the most memorable night so far has to be a trip to Chung King Mansion (via the ferry of course) in Kowloon. Now this is an intimidating place to say the least, famous in these parts for it’s hedonistic mix of traders, cheap hostels and an abundance of little restaurants hidden away in this cement jungle. Not the kind of place a slip of a lad from the Home Counties goes on his own, so fortunately I had BBR HK’s own “Phil Mitchell”, Mark Arrowsmith, (a local in this part of town), on hand to guide us to the third floor, for a feed at his favourite curry house!!! Now we weren’t shy with ordering and it was all for under ten pounds each and by gee it was the best curry I have had for a while! After that we whisked our way through the market stalls and fake Rolexs on Temple Street (think an east end market on steroids!) and into the strangest Karaoke Bar I have ever been to. I cannot quit explain, but the locals were as nice as pie, incredibly friendly, and boy did they like to sing. Coupled with a gentleman in sequin blazer, tinkling the ivories behind the performer, this made the X factor auditions look tame. A great night and I am plucking up the courage to head back, get on stage and bring the house down with a bit of “Show me the way to Amarillo”.

This really is just the start of what life is like here, crazy fascinating and a place that is begging for you to scratch underneath the surface!

Now let’s get serious and talk about just how amazing our dinner (at H One in the IFC Tower) with the very humble Alfred Tesseron (Owner of Ch. Pontet-Canet) was. I say humble, as it doesn’t need me to point out just what an incredible job Alfred has done with this sleeping giant. At dinner he was keen to point out that it was the land and the respect and work in the vineyard that has allowed the vines to flourish, that is the reason behind this success and nothing to do with him and his work. I would point out that if it was not for Alfred’s hindsight back in the early 90’s to farm organically and now practice bio-dynamic techniques, this would not have come to fruition (in fact a trip to Pontet is not complete without a visit to the stable to see the horses – right – that plough the vineyard!)

At the dinner we went back to front, as they say. Starting with oldest, the 1990, and finishing with the youngest in 2007. The 1990 was lovely and mature; a classic example of Pauillac that has taken on those secondary aromas, the 1994 had more fruit and perhaps a bit more bang and character. We jumped to the 2000 that is still very young and tight and actually struggled when compared to the more classical and aromatic vintages in 2001 and 2002. For me 2001 is one of the most underrated vintages in recent years and, like 2000 in Burgundy, they are just coming into their own. 2003 was flashy, with gorgeous sweet fruit; classier and more composed than many 2003’s I have tasted (in general I am not the biggest fan of the vintage, sorry Mr Parker).

Now personally I think there was real step up in the wines from 2004. More energy, focus and precision; perhaps all the work in the vineyard was now coming to fruition. 2004 and 2006 were similar in style to perhaps the 2001 but with more fruit, texture and depth apparent. 2007 was lovely and honest, it is not a showstopper and not pretending to be a wine it wasn’t. Just fresh, vibrant and classic Pauillac that in 2-3 years this will be perfect. It’s a petty that 2007 has been tarred with such a horrible brush. Now I have left the 2005 last on purpose. There is no other way of describing this but… legendary. This is certainly up there as one of the wines of this historic vintage, the greatest Pontet I have tasted. Oh so young, but I couldn’t help but be blown away by the structure, depth and layers of fruit on offer. All the while it felt so precise and delicate with finish that lingered on and on. Incredible considering the concentration of this wine. As Alfred said, this is a wine that you can only make once in a lifetime. This was his Mona Lisa or the Sistine Chapel…. Well done indeed Monsieur Tesseron, I take my hat off to you. This is why I love wine so much!

Having said that he was also getting fairly excited about what the 2009 vintage has brought with it… we shall see!

Ps… If an American ever asks you to play touch American Football… say NO straight away. I have never seen the word “touch” misused so badly! I have no skin on my knees and on one side of my body. I have so many bruises I look like an Alsatian. Hiking this Saturday will be a struggle!

Trying a cask sample is a risky thing to do as the wine is still very much in its infancy, with the grapes only being picked from the vine a handful of months ago. From the start Jean-Guillaume stressed the importance of not seeing this as the finished article, but instead to taste the potential of this extremely young wine. It was a fascinating exercise for our customers and I am sure that what stuck out most of all was the obvious quality of fruit and potential that was found in the glass. I am looking forward to tasting many more 2009s in a few months’ time when I visit Bordeaux (though I’m not sure if my teeth and gums are going to thank me!)

After this intriguing insight it was time to kick back, relax and taste Cos through the ages. The 2002, a Bordeaux vintage that largely managed to slip under the radar, was showing superbly with lovely aromatics. Then the 2000; a wine that is still young, but like a two year-old thoroughbred race horse seems to be putting on some muscle and loosing the puppy fat, allowing us just a glimpse of the layers of fruit on offer. This wine really has great potential. The 1995 had a large amount of Merlot in it and consequently offers a more luscious, exotic and hedonistic edge. I have always loved this vintage and yet again it proved to be exceptional. The 1985 was a beautiful example of a mature delicate Cos, with that lovely juxtaposition of seduction and grace.

All in all a great evening was thoroughly enjoyed by all.  Jean-Guillaume, as ever, was a superb host, providing considerable detail on all the vintages being drunk and I would also like to make particular mention of Kent Wong (a man who loves and knows his wines) and his staff at Amuse Bouche. Kent and his team offered great service, which combined with a fantastic venue and a stunning view made for a cracker of an event. Oh, and the food is tip top as well! Not that I am Hong Kong restaurant expert (yet!) but I will certainly be going back. At the end of the dinner there was much deliberation as to the wines of the night, but what everyone agreed on was the vision and direction that Cos d’Estournel seems to be going in with Jean-Guillaume at the helm. Personally I believe that the best wines to come from this Chateau have been made over the last decade and given how tasty and impeccable older vintages are now, boy oh boy am looking forward to tasting more recent vintages in years to come.

I had such a good time that I failed to make Boot Camp in the morning, much to my colleagues’ dismay. So another tough hike beckoned on Saturday, although this time I had the treat of some Yum Cha in Mong Kok afterwards… not that I had any idea what I was ordering!

So there I was waiting at Star Ferry Pier at 7am for the ferry over, the earliest I have been up on a Saturday morning for many-a-year. Geordie and James advised me that we were off to scale the twin peaks of Lantau Island; Sunset Peak and Lantau Peak… this all sounded rather nice and a great way to start the weekend. Given that I am pretty confident in my fitness I was guessing I would find this little jaunt no problem at all.

Well, as we wandered onto dry land and got a cab to our start point, the alarm bells started to ring!!! We cut through the saddle between the hills at the centre of the island, on our way to the Giant Buddha, an 85-foot-high bronze Buddha statue which was to be our starting point. Lantau Peak loomed ahead of us like Muhammed Ali standing over George Foreman, and the closer we got the more my knees began to knock. It was only then that I began to piece together just what I had got myself into. For James and Geordie are veterans of the Maclehose Trail, one of the most extreme land races in the world and something you must SUPER fit for.

Upon arriving at the Buddha our hike began and the chaps mentioned to me what lay in-store…. A steep climb up Lantau peak (934m), a swift decent and then straight up Sunset Peak (869m), before a gentle walk down to Mui Wo for lunch. To put this into perspective Snowdon is 1,085m… I hope you can understand now why there was a tear in my eye as I was told this news!

Well I survived… (not the quickest time I have been reminded several times since). The only reason for this was not my fitness but the fact that my mind was elsewhere… marveling at the absolutely stunning scenery that surrounded me. You really cannot put this into words. One moment you are looking at a mile-long beach, then the next you find yourself mesmerized by the ‘Lord of the Rings’ like beauty at the top Sunset Peak. You are light years away from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong Island, yet only 25 minutes ferry ride away. It really is quite amazing.

Well as I write this my calves are still wrapped in ice and I’m walking like I’m in 10” stilettos! Incredibly the guys have convinced me to go to “Boot Camp” tomorrow morning at 6.30 am as well! One thing is for sure, I’ll be doing plenty more hiking, though next time a little flatter perhaps.

Back to more serious matters… wine. So, to numb my pain after the hike, I attended a Burgundy dinner with Jasper Morris on the Saturday night. The highlight was 01 Clos Vougeot from Grivot, just starting to show its potential, and the 06 Rossignol-Trapet Chambertin, very young, I know, but crikey what a good young wine it is. All there and you know it will have all the makings of a star… think Wayne Rooney in his Everton days. Cos d’Estournel dinner on Thursday with the genial Jean-Guillaume Prats… life in Hong Kong is treating me pretty well so far…