It is often forgotten that Berrys Bros. & Rudd’s two royal warrants state wine and spirits and although we have grown our portfolio rapidly in the last four years, spirits have been a very important aspect of the company from vintage cognacs to the game-changing Cutty Sark. However it is quite some portfolio that I have been given to work with as Product Trainer. My heart lies mainly with gin, whisky runs a close second, and I have thoroughly enjoyed running masterclasses across the UK on the wonderfully traditional No.3 Gin named after, you guessed it, the shop. As if that was not enough, I have only managed to chip the surface of the award winning range of Berrys’ Own Selection whiskies and rums though needless to say my first purchase was a Speyside from my birth year though this is packed away for a special occasion for now; I will report later!

And then there is The Glenrothes Speyside Single Malt, where I was sent in my first week to visit the distillery, experience the magic of lake fishing in the rain and the subsequent enjoyment of a Ginger Mac – 50:50 The King’s Ginger and The Glenrothes – to warm up. The Glenrothes was the first distillery to release whisky by vintage i.e. when it is ready to drink as opposed to age statement, and has captured my taste buds with the 1988 but I look forward to this year’s new vintage releases to discover another side of this exciting product. As well as exciting packaging since the 1970 Extraordinary won “World’s Best Design” at the World Whisky Awards in March.

Slightly off the wall is Pink Pigeon, a vanilla infused single estate rum from Mauritius - a wonderful ingredient to keep in your cabinet for some tasty and creative cocktails; after all, who doesn’t love vanilla? However with its first international competition completed in March, I will leave brand manager Luigi to tell you more about this one in his own blog post. Prepare to swoon at photos of this stunning island.

And last but not least, as well as the oldest of the bunch, is The King’s Ginger liqueur. An “emphatically ginger liqueur” first designed in 1903 for King Edward VII, spreading the story of this brand, both to bar tenders and customers, has been a pleasure as they all appreciate the real history and the sense of fun too. So I am delighted to present you with the newly released Spring Daisy, the most recent in a line of seasonal recipes we release to ensure that your bottle does not gather dust on the shelf. This is Spring-fresh and easy to make, with ingredients that you are more than likely to have already or won’t mind adding to your collection!

30ml The King’s Ginger
30ml Cognac
25ml lemon juice
10ml sugar syrup
2 dashes of Fee Brother rhubarb bitters (optional)

Add all ingredients into a cocktail shaker with ice and shake. Double strain into a pony glass and serve with a sprig of mint to garnish.

Look out for my next post when I will report back on my trip to Scotch Research Institute Sensory workshop to learn how to really appreciate The Glenrothes as well as why it smells and tastes as good as it does.

- Amanda Baxter, Berrys’ Spirits Team

On a warm evening at the end of April, 100 Wine Club members and their guests descended to the Napoleon Cellar, two floors beneath our historic London shop, for the annual Wine Club Walkaround tasting.

All the wines shown feature in the upcoming May delivery so it was a great way for members to get a sneak preview of what they can expect in their next case.

We showed 20 wines, across 4 tables, split into French and non- French tables. The heart of Wine Club lies in France so the bias is towards French wines; therefore we included wines from Chablis, Bordeaux and the Loire but the rest of the world was represented too with unusual and varied wines from Australia, South Africa, Spain and Italy.

As ever, Berrys staff were on hand to pour the wines and talk guests through the range. We were delighted that Mark Pardoe MW, who has recently taken over from Alun Griffiths MW as Berrys’ Wine Buying Director, hosted one of the tables. It’s always interesting to chat about wines with someone as knowledgeable as a Master of Wine.

I hope that those who came enjoyed the evening as much as I did.

Wine Club events are exclusive to Wine Club members and their guests. If you’d like to discover more about Wine Club please visit our website.

The principal purpose of Port Tongs is to open a bottle where the cork may be too old and in danger of disintegrating by removing the glass neck of the bottle as well as the cork itself. That aside, with an audience to hand, there’s every good reason to use them purely for some sporting showmanship.

An unknown, ullaged (a trade expression for bottles where the wine has, in time, leaked out) bottle was selected from the family cellar. From external appearance, probably a vintage from the 1950s or ‘60s.

The brand new (and, indeed, very firmly branded Taylor’s they are too) tongs were duly planted into a fire and left to heat. 

A bowl of ice-chilled water was prepared in which a cloth lay soaking. Once the Tongs were glowing hot, they were held round the neck, and lightly held touching the glass at a spot between cork and the level of the wine. Held there for a minute or two, they were then removed and the ice-cold cloth wrapped round the neck which was followed immediately by a very satisfying, high-pitched ‘’ping’’ – et voila! The neck of the bottle sheered neatly, and the wine was ready to be decanted with no glass shards apparent.

The wine had stood up well enough – the bottle was a third empty – but in spite of this it was fresh enough though soon mellowed into a supple, delicately hued glass of well-aged Vintage Port. One of the party, a brother, ventured it as 1960 Dow – a wine he recognised from the cellar some good few years ago.

Arriving at Oporto airport, the luscious green landscape belies the fact that in summer this is the hottest wine growing area of Europe. Not wanting to miss the England versus Wales, we watched the rugby at the house of Johnny and Helen Symington before driving to the hotel to change for dinner at The Factory House. The Factory house was originally built by the British Port wine shippers as a type of gentleman’s club to discuss their business. Today the members represented are still all British-owned Port companies and they still meet on a Wednesday for lunch, to discuss business and participate in a blind tasting. After a sumptuous dinner, we were totally surprised as the side doors of the dining room opened to  an identical twin dining room used solely for the enjoyment of vintage port. Graham’s 1952 Diamond Jubilee Colheita was served alongside 1970 Graham’s vintage port with plates of dried apricots and walnuts. The evening was not complete without a toast to the Queen and the President of Portugal as well as the stories of the Bishop of Norwich. Port is traditionally passed to the left, but when a guest has forgotten to pass the port their attention is called by the question “Do you know the Bishop of Norwich?” Those who are not acquainted with the tradition will be told that he is ‘a good chap, but never passes the Port’. Intriguingly, the current Bishop of Norwich is called Graham….

Oporto is the second largest city of Portugal and can trace its history back to the 4^th century. As the morning sun comes up over the city, it shows a mosaic of coloured houses and the signs of the famous port lodges, where almost all ports are still aged. For the first two days we are in the hands of the Symingtons, whose portfolio include Graham’s, Dow’s, Warre, Cockburn, Quinta do Vesuvio and Smith Woodhouse. The Symingtons have been port producers since 1882 and today the business is run by five members of the family. It is the only major port company to be wholly family owned and the Symingtons are the largest vineyards holders with 26 quintas. Each of the properties has their own styles, and character – we hear more about each over the next 24 hours. We visited first the Graham’s lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia. Recently restored it is worth visiting for the sense of history, to understand the ageing process and finally to eat in their newly built restaurants.  Johnny Symington with winemaker Henry Shotton showed us their 2011s. Rainfall at the end of 2010 had topped up the water-reserves, critical to the vine’s sustenance during the hot summer months. A hot, humid April and May caused some oidium and mildew in the vineyards, which affected the final yields rather than the quality of the fruit. The summer months were extremely hot and dry culminating in small thick skinned berries with high sugar levels. An extra-ordinary blessing came in the form of rain on the 21^st August and 1^st September, which softened the skins (important due to the short maceration and fermentation of port) and allowed the phenolic  (flavour) ripeness to catch up. The 2011s are characterized by deep dark fruit, real precision and a continuous length. Production for the 2011s is low with the average production down by 25-30% on that of the 2007s (and about 45% down on the 1994s). As a result, the Symingtons expect that the full production will be sold en primeur and they are not intending to hold stock back (apart for personal use) at the estates.

After the tasting, we drive inland to Quinta do Vesuvio, which is located in the Upper Douro about 30 miles from the Spanish border. From Oporto we first cross the Serra do Marao, a 1000m high mountain range that protects the vineyards from the rains arriving from the sea. The views are spectacular, but the drive shows just how inhospitable the terrain is. It seems madness that anyone could have thought that these steep, stony, mountains in some of the most remote country in Europe with a climate that hits 40°C in summer could be a good place to build vineyards. After almost three hours we park the car and cross the Douro river by boat to arrive at Quinta do Vesuvio. Vesuvio was originally founded by Don Antonia, a formidable woman who did not simply build a winery in one of the most remote parts of the Douro, but had sufficient vision to build a large scale lagare system envisioning growth as well as completely self-sufficient communities including a school for the children. It is so hot in this part of the Douro that the vineyards are north facing. Quinta do Vesuvio was added to the Symington portfolio in 1989 and has preserved all the traditions of the Port industry, while maintaining the highest quality port production; harvest takes about five weeks with a team of 40 pickers who pick from 7am to 5pm and after dinner spend four hours manually treading the grapes in the stone lagares. We first visited the winery with a short tasting of the 1994, 1996 and 2003 Quinta do Vesuvio. Followed by a drive to the top of the mountain to see the whole of the estate, drink white port & tonic and give Johnny the time to explain more about the domaine; there is a program of constant replanting to ensure a good supply of old vines at all times, there is an experimental vineyard since 1997 (3ha at Warre’s Cavadinha’s vineyard), the Symingtons own the largest organic vineyard in Portugal and employ 7 full time coopers to ensure their barrels are in perfect condition. To continue the traditional theme at Vesuvio we eat a harvest lunch of grass soup and Bacalhau (dried salted cod). Back across the Douro by boat, we drive across the windy roads to Quinta dos Malvedos, the major Quinta for Graham’s. The house is surrounded by walled terraces of vines, which form the heart of Graham’s Stone Terraces vintage port. The steep slopes are almost impossible for machines and once again we are stunned by the remoteness of the landscape and its beauty. I have visited quite a few wine-regions but have never seen such a beautiful landscape. It is not surprising that the Douro valley is classified as a world heritage by UNESCO.

We continue to enjoy the wonderful hospitality from Helen and Johnny Symington as we stay the night at Malvedos. Dinner is served with 1963 Graham’s, 1977 Warre and 1980 Dow’s (still so young) as conversation flows easily. We talk about the balancing  of old traditions and innovation, the search for the best quality and the importance of upholding family values. The next morning we look at the robotic lagares that the Symingtons themselves designed. It brings great advantages in the sense that it is temperature controlled and it is quicker to get the juice from the fermentation vat to the fortified spirit therefore allowing an extra precious hour of extraction. Overlooking the Douro we taste the 1978, 1986 and 1999 Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos. As Johnny Symington said ‘1986 was the vintage that never was’. Everyone had declared the 1985 and therefore the 1986 is the forgotten vintage, but the cool fruit, dark intensity and rich texture of the 1986 shows that it may be worth declaring two vintages in a row. It is time to say goodbye to our wonderful hosts as we board a boat to take us to Pinhão. The breathtaking views of the Douro are best admired by boat and it is by far the easiest mode of travel.

Pinhão, located in the Cima Courgo (middle Douro) seems like a metropolis after the remoteness of the last two days. It is 10 minutes from Pinhão to the exquisite Quinta do Noval, where we are met by Christian Seely, managing director of AXA Millesimes. Christian has a special affection for this estate, as it fulfilled a long standing dream of running a winery when he was offered the position of running the estate in 1993 on behalf of AXA Millesimes. Christian feels that Noval of all the major port houses is ‘most strongly identified with a sense of place’ as it is the only major port house associated with one single port. In addition, Quinta do Noval Nacional is the ultimate expression of a single (2ha) quinta. We started with a slightly bizarre, though fascinating, line up of ports; from Noval Black to 2003 Noval Nacional. A walk after lunch through the vineyards just re-enforced how beautiful this property is. The 2ha Nacional vineyard lies at both sides of the driveway and I had never grasped just how small the vineyard is. The vines are famously ungrafted as the soil for mysterious reasons is free from phylloxera. The average age of the vines is 30 years and they are incredibly low yielding with many vines only producing one bunch. A great example of terroir, the port is made in exactly the same way as the Noval Vintage port, but produces a port that is totally different in style, so much so that in 1996 Noval declared the Nacional but not the Noval Vintage and in 2003 they only produced the vintage but not the Nacional.

We enjoyed a magnificent dinner with a traditional leitão assado (suckling pig) and dry Douro reds followed by 1968 Colheita, 1967 Noval Nacional, 1980 Noval Nacional (sadly corked), and 1937 Colheita. The latter was tremendous, with the edge taking on an olive green tinge and a length that simple went on and on.

After a boat trip on the Douro on Tuesday morning we travelled by car to Quinta do Panascal for lunch and a visit to the vineyards at Quinta da Roeda with viticulturist António Magalhães. For anyone passionate about the production of wine, this was a fascinating tour. We looked at the advantage of vertical plantings rather than terraces and the importance of the different grape varieties to the final blend. 25% of all the grapes used at Taylor’s, Fonseca and Croft are from their own supply (and 100% for their vintage ports) adding to the control that they have over the final quality of their wines. After the vineyard visit we went to see one of the warehouses. Increasingly the Taylor Fladgate Partnership stores and ages their ports in the Douro rather than making the journey to  Vila Nova de Gaia and as today this is possible with temperature and humidity controlled warehouses. Our last night in the Douro we stayed at Quinta de Vargellas with Adrian Bridge as genial host. As the main road towards Vargellas was covered by a landslide (erosion is still a major problem in the Douro), we took a steep windy path covered in potholes but with fantastic views over the Vargellas vineyards. Vargellas is located within an amphitheatre of terraced vines and from the house one looks out on part of the vineyards that form the core of the Vargellas Vinha Velha (80-100 year old vines, which in outstanding vintages produce an outstanding special cuvée). That evening we tasted the 2000 Vargellas Vinha Velha with it beautifully scented fruit. After dinner we did a parallel tasting of the 1985 Fonseca and 1985 Taylor’s, opened with tongs heated on the fire. The 1985 Fonseca was intense giving an explosion of flavours on the palate, but personally I prefer the slightly more restrained Taylor’s at this stage.

Wednesday morning after breakfast, we tried to hit a few golfballs over the Douro river (unsuccessfully) before returning to Oporto to visit the Taylor’s lodges for one of the most fascinating tastings of the trip; a 2011 component part tastings with David Guimaraens. We tasted 3 wines from three different quintas, followed by three samples from vineyards planted in 1970-1980s (less old than samples 1-3 and therefore with less varieties), followed by two samples from the same vineyard, but one from vines planted in the 1980s and one in the 1930s. The final two samples came from a batch that was rejected for the vintage port on the basis of a) under-ripeness and b) over-ripeness. It was an important lesson as it shows the importance of the breadth of varieties used in the Douro. Traditionally just over 80 varieties can be used to make port, but commonly 6 varieties are used today. David uses the old vineyards as ‘teachers’ and argues that it is important to plant more varieties as 2-3% of other varieties add extra complexity calling it the ‘salt and pepper’ of winemaking. We finished our trip on a high with a glass of glorious Scion over lunch. In 2008 David and Adrian were informed that there was a cask of very rare port from the pre-phylloxera period that had been stored in the Corgo Valley. Having passed from generation to generation, this had become a family heirloom that due to circumstances had been kept in unusually perfect conditions. In 2009 the last member of the family had passed away and Taylor’s had the opportunity to buy the casks. Usually, old tawnys such as these are blended into the 40 year old tawny, but this was of such outstanding quality that they decided to do a single bottling, which they called ‘Scion’.  It is perfection in a glass with an olive rim and a breathtaking complexity and intensity.

I learned two important lessons over the week. Firstly, I had been worried that large companies owning a number of different port houses would somehow diminish the uniqueness of each house. This was totally not true. Both the Fladgate Partnership and the Symington Family Estates have a commitment to family values and trying to capture the essence of port. Their ownership of estates simply means they can focus on the different expressions of port and have the financial security to do this with enormous skill. Finally, having tasted the different producers and vineyards, I would agree with Christian Seely when he said that in the Douro ‘we don’t talk enough about terroir in relation to the Douro, but it is just as important here as it is in Bordeaux or Burgundy’.

Vintage Port is a fascinating example of a category which has gained a fanatical following amongst a relatively small constituency of wine connoisseurs, most of them based in Great Britain and latterly the USA. Berry Bros are lucky enough to be the largest single importer of Vintage Port into the UK, and to have a treasured stock of early London (BB&R) bottlings of celebrated vintages in the Family Reserves. For all the sound and fury, Vintage Port only makes up 2% of overall production and is mostly focused on those shippers which are in British independent ownership, with the occasional honorary Dutchmen (Dirk Niepoort ) to spice up the po(r)t.

The origins of Vintage Port are somewhat cloudy, unlike the wine, which will only, with age, become crusted. The trade between Portugal and England was dependent on the extent to which we were irritated or at war with France, but the Methuen Treaty of 1703 coincided pleasingly with the habit of adding brandy to the wine and the practice of ‘second year’ bottling became more prevalent in the middle of the eighteenth century. The first specifically vintage-dated wines correspond with the emergence of the extant bottle-shape and there are extensive records of vintage bottlings dating back to 1870. The current system is a peculiar amalgam of romantic  ritual (the patriotic Declaration falls on April 23^rd; St George’s Day) and minute bureaucratic procedure ( in terms of sample approval by the IVP -  Insituto do Vinho do Porto- and then permitted bottling timing) not forgetting the necessity to have had an outstanding season in the year in question. Cynics observe that Declarations appear to have followed commercial rather than meteorological imperatives, with well-spaced campaigns (2000 then 2003 then 2007 for example) ensuring optimal returns. The reality is, of course, far more complicated, with so-called split declarations (2009) and lengthy gaps (between 1985 and 1991 for example) both illustrating that the process is far from proscriptive or rigorously cyclical.

Be that as it may, things are certainly looking good for a Declaration this April 23^rd, with the quality of the vintage in question (2011) apparently reflecting a growing season that was every bit as good as those for the last truly great vintages (1994 and 1977). Paul Symington, when asked to outline the appeal of 2001 has responded with an unmistakable cri de coeur; ‘Quality!…Quality!….Quality!’, which appears to be quite promising. The nation awaits what is now an open secret; indeed trade tastings have already been organised during the week in question and one or two of the less obviously anglophile houses (Ferreira, Offley and the once very patriotic Sandeman) have defied St George, as is their prerogative, and already made the Declaration.

There will be great excitement over the coming weeks: who will win the battle of the big names between friendly(ish) rivals Taylor and Graham? Will Dow excel itself once again as it did so memorably in 2007? What will the Symingtons do now that they have control over the famous name (and equally importantly vineyards) of Cockburn? How will the enigmatic and brilliant Dirk Niepoort perform and will Quinta do Noval, often the most eccentric when it comes to backing specific vintages, actually declare this time? All will become clear over the coming weeks. But one thing is for sure ..Vintage Port remains one of the greatest of all fortified wines, not merely by definition, and also one of the most under-valued. Despite the near Messianic loyalty of its adherents, the category is under-appreciated as an investment wine and therefore remains exceptional value. One of my favourite evenings in the BB&R Events Calendar is our Annual Port Walk, when we open 25 or so differing ports, the vast majority of which are from the vintage category. It is fascinating to trace the development of these noble wines each year; last time, the 94s were really starting to come into their own from the ‘younger’ wines and the graceful 1970s were showing the full kaleidoscopic potential of the more senior representatives. Great Vintage Port ages with far more dignity than he who purchases it, and each of the seven ages of port will entice, fascinate and beguile in equal measure. It seems almost certain that 2011 will step onto this stage with all the mewling self-belief of one of the very greatest.

The shop team picked up the gauntlet to find the best wine matches for great British beef and fine artisan cheeses and tasting tables and master classes were laid on to help customers discover the best matches.

Sarah Purdon made a welcome return to the shop with her mouth-watering Belted Galloway Beef.  She’d specially made some delicious meatballs which customers could try plain or with a choice of two sauces. The beef match of the day was the plain meatballs with 2009 St Joseph Rouge, Domaine Michel et Stéphane Ogier Although Finca Allende’s 2006 Rioja Tinto and meatballs with Armenian Jajig was an excellent match too. Recipe cards to takeaway were available on the day and were snapped up by customers eager to try them out for themselves.

Nick Page, our enthusiastic shop manager – who is renowned for his food and wine matching expertise – and Graham Goodall of The Cheese Stall conducted the cheese and wine master classes. After a whirlwind tour of the fascinating similarities between wine and cheese – yes, familiarities such as how terroir affects the flavour, quality and ripeness of both cheese and wine; and like grape juice, milk can be fermented into an alcoholic drink – the ‘class’ was treated to a lesson in matching wine with cheese. Nick had done a great job of selecting the wines and cheeses and all the combinations worked well, but the stand out pairings were:

Crottin de Chavignol and 2011 Sancerre Blanc, André Dezat

Mimolette and 2009 Ch. de Pressac, St Emilion

Stichelton and 1997 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port

This Saturday, 20^th April, there’s another event in the Bin End Shop. The theme this weekend is ‘Whisky’. Two master classes will be conducted:

11.30am Battle of the Bottlers – Adrian Lancer (Rocky) will be comparing our Berrys’ Own Selection bottlings with distillery bottlings – will you be able to taste the difference amongst the line-up of superb Whiskies?

2.00pm Lost Distilleries – our very own canny Scot, Alex Ross, will show you a selection of irreplaceable Whiskies from some now closed distilleries, which will offer an opportunity to taste some rare Whiskes that will soon be lost to the world forever.

Plus, as is always the case on these special days, there’ll be some superb spirits heavily discounted which you can peruse on the day.

Leon Reilly, Berrys’ Bin-End Shop

We have just returned from a week tasting where we have visited 57 properties and attended a major private négociant tasting. During the week, we tasted over 100 wines, 80% of which we actually tasted twice. Over a three-week period most of the wines will have been tasted thoroughly by our Fine Wine Account Managers, four to six times overall, which will give us an unrivalled level of expertise on the vintage.

Our duty as a Wine Merchant is to provide the best possible guidance to our customers in helping them to make the right choice. There is no doubt that the vintage has been difficult. The weather in the spring was very wet and resulted in a difficult flowering. August was, however, very hot which helped to re-balancing the vintage. However, mid-October was very wet and made the difference between the good, the bad and the ugly.

St Emilion and Pomerol were largely untouched by the bad weather, as the majority of the Merlot grapes had had time to ripen before the rain. Some of the Cabernet Franc was affected but the overall result should be quite good, and in line with the 1998 vintage. This generally also applies to the best estates in the Graves area. I am generally not a fan of big Merlot wines as I find they can be flabby and alcoholic but this vintage has given freshness to the Merlot and toned down most of the usual blockbusters, resulting in some cracking wines. 

On the Left Bank, the weather suppressed the last two weeks of ideal ripening condition ideally needed for optimum ripeness in the Cabernets, which resulted in a patchier outcome. All in all, the châteaux that have produced very good wines are those which have worked tirelessly in the vineyard to make sure that the fruits remained as healthy as possible, and to let the wine make itself in the winery; in other words, those that did not apply over-extraction and make-up in the winery. We left, however, in high spirits in the knowledge that a good 40 to 50 wines are very good to excellent, and 20 to 30 are very good. At the correct price these will represent excellent bargains for the cellar; most of the wines in my cellar are from vintages such as 2002, 2004 and 2008 as these will provide me with excellent, good value and long term drinking for years to come. In the knowledge that there will be little chance of securing such great wines at affordable prices in the coming years, there is no reason why 2012 should not be a great source of drinking wines for years to come.

There are lots of rumours that the châteaux will release early, following a letter from Olivier Bernard (Domaine de Chevalier and president of the Union des Grands Crus) to the major players in Bordeaux highlighting the debacle from last year en primeur campaign where as many as 48 châteaux released in one day. There are actually less than 40 days to release 500+ wines before Vinexpo 2013 on June 16th, so a bit of organisation will be required to make sure that all goes well and everybody has a chance to buy their favourite wines in a stress-free manner. A lot of négociants are still showing round buyers from around the world this week, and therefore we do not expect to see any major releases quite yet – but things are likely to start moving quickly from the 22nd onwards.

We will, of course, keep you updated with the latest news from Bordeaux, and will be ready to offer the best advice to our customers as soon as the wines begin to release.

I was joined by a group of fellow European students for the winery visits, which included three that Berrys deals with: Ridge, Ramey and Frog’s Leap. We were lucky enough to be taken round the stunning 2000m altitude Monte Bello estate and winery at Ridge by Paul Draper himself and his winemaker, who between them were happy to shed light on a number of things for us.  This included why the site is so good- a geologists dream apparently – formed in such a way that their winery withstood a minor earthquake a few years previously; and the attention to detail in their winemaking, right down to the unpleasant task of checking the corks they buy for TCA (something Mr Draper is happy to leave to others in his team!) – thousands have been sent back to suppliers. 

David Ramey has only just acquired vineyards, so buys in grapes from growers he’s known for years, keeping a very close eye on what and how they do things. Even so, tasting with him was fascinating, as much for his views on the wine industry in general as well as the wines themselves.  Frog’s Leap was our last visit just before the seminar began. This organic/sustainable winery is again beautifully situated and showed how it is possible to produce quality, affordable wines in California that aren’t monstrously alcoholic (or sweet) and without resorting to masses of chemicals.

The seminar itself was a pretty packed programme of workshops around the various papers that candidates take – viticulture, viniculture, wine business and ethical/social issues – lectures and mock papers.  But the sessions which always cause MW students the most anxiety are the blind tastings.  Each day commenced at 8am with a mock 12-wine tasting paper, followed by a sometimes humbling group feedback session.  These not only test your grape recognition abilities but also your winemaking knowledge and the wines’ origin.  This is not always easy with the cross-fertilisation between countries of techniques and styles.  An interesting part of doing the MW is meeting and learning from people working in different parts of the wine trade- winemakers, exporters, sommeliers, buyers, importers, journalists etc. – from all over the world.  In summary, a great learning experience during the long haul that is the MW.

This morning we spent our last day of Bordeaux 2012 En Primeur week with a 9am start at Ch. la Mission Haut-Brion, tasting both the Grand Vin and La Mission itself, among many others wines such as Quintus and their Blancs. As an overview of the 9 wines we have tasted, the stable is very impressive. Haut-Brion is particularly generous with fruit in 2012 and Quintus, which is now in its second vintage, is quite impressive too. It has a fantastic and seductive nose, and the winemakers have clearly begun to understand the different terroir of this site to produce such a highly thought of 2012. 

We visited Carmes de Haut Brion (a certainty for the personal list of Simon Staples) next before arriving at our penultimate property, the recently very impressive Domaine de Chevalier in Graves. The 2012 red Grand Vin is really seductive, beautiful Claret and without question one of the wines of the week. The length is incredible and perfectly poised.  The white, as usual, was a classic expression of White Bordeaux. We would also categorise Ch. Haut-Bailly in the highly thought of bracket. Veronique Sanders has been able to produce something special this year, remaining true to the property’s exceptional terroir. The wine has the classic smooth and silkiness, but also shows an abundance of fruit and a steely focus. 

2012 was scarcely written about prior to this week and early speculation suggested that the wines would be a challenge to taste. Pleasingly, the producers who have taken great care in their grape selections, prudently tended their vines, picked at the right time, worked with their excellent terroir and attempted to create balanced and fruit driven wines have succeeded. In general, Merlot is especially important to these 2012 wines. In some cases it hasn’t been possible to pick Cabernet Sauvignon at optimum ripeness – resulting jn some acidity and not quite enough fruit on the mid-palate and finish. Many claim that it is a Right Bank vintage, but we have certainly found many instances of good Left Bank/Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wines. It is for this reason that we find general statements about vintages, Left/Right Bank and even communes to be miss-leading and unhelpful.

Good winemakers can produce good wine in difficult circumstances and in a vintage such as 2012 and indeed in 2011 prior, this is especially evident. Our Chairman, Simon Berry, has been discussing this principle during the week and his view that in the future customers could start purchasing wines from particular producers in each vintage, rather than wine from many producers in vintages perceived to be the most impressive, could become the norm. If the prices are competitive and the timing of releases are well thought out, which fortunately all of the vignerons appear to be considering appropriately, then 2012 Bordeaux has certainly produced some suitable wines to be purchased en primeur. To find the right wines for your taste and preference, the role of the Wine Merchant and their teams of individuals who have taken the opportunity to taste all of the wines and discussed the vintage and intentions for each wine in person with winemakers, will be vitally important. 

We fly back to the UK this afternoon and plan to spend some time reflecting on the wines we have tasted while the teams who look after our private clients from the UK, Hong Kong, Singapore and Japan also head to the South West over the next couple of weeks. Once all of the opinions are collected, we will release our scores (please remember that we are scoring wines in the context of this vintage, and these scores shouldn’t be compared with those from other vintages) , vintage report, individual tasting notes and details of which wines we intend to recommend in our ‘Best Buy’ categories.

< Tasting Trip Day 4

Following a short stop at Ch. Calon-Ségur (who decided to green harvest in July and have managed to develop a super fruit profile, with subtle tannin and relatively intense acidity), later in the morning we enjoyed visits to Cos d’Estournel (delicious wines with a generosity of fruit and subtly balanced tannin – the kind of fruit profile missing in the less attractive wines of this vintage). 

Ch. Pontet-Canet is a large estate that can trace its origins back to 1725. The team at Pontet have excelled again in 2012, creating another wine which defies its classification as  5ème Cru Classé. Cepagé is the same as last year – 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot and they picked late on 4 October to offer the grapes a greater chance of reaching suitable ripeness, but they harvested quickly adding an extra sorting table. Melanie Tesseron thinks that the taste of the wine is enhanced with freshness and minerality by their biodynamic processes that allow them to be closer to their vines. Since 2005 the property was in conversion phase, they were fully converted in 2010. Their goal is balance in the vineyard and balance in the wine – something they appear to have achieved. 

In the afternoon we enjoyed tastings at Ch. Haut-Bages Libéral (70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, soft, silky and generous – it was so tasty we would be tempted to drink it now. A very nice glass of wine), and Ch. Pichon-Baron which is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot.  We also tried Ch. Pibran and Tourelles de Longueville, both wines that seem to have got the generosity of fruit right in 2012.

Ch. Lafite Rothschild is notoriously hard to taste En Primeur and Charles Chevalier often mentions when we taste at this renowned property that he would prefer to show his wines later in the year when they become more approachable and reveal their true identity. This year, it was particularly focused, classy and has lots to offer. Ch. Mouton Rothschild (90% Cabernet Sauvignon) was fresh, decadent, intense and the possessor of a lingering finish that you would expect from a First Growth property. It has beautiful finesse. To conclude day three in Bordeaux we tasted at Ch. Latour, home to one of the most impressive tasting facilities I have come across (even if the spittoon is hard to navigate). Despite this property taking the bold and unique decision to not release their wines En Primeur this year, we took the opportunity to taste ahead of their future release, which director Frederic Engerer plans to do when they are approaching suitable drinking windows. We will leave our overall judgement on the First Growths until we taste at Ch. Haut-Brion tomorrow, but indications are that the wines are very well made this year – choosing a favourite may come down to personal choice rather than anything to do with quality.

Thursday has been a really intriguing and enjoyable day. By tasting such highly sought after wines, we are able to really start to understand the vintage and the quality of the wines it has produced. Tonight we taste at Ch. Léoville-Las Cases, one of the largest and oldest classified Growths in the Médoc and another 2ème Cru Classé in name who regularly produce 1er Cru Classé quality wines. Look out for our comments about the wines intomorrow’s blog.

Remember to return to the blog this afternoon for the review of our fifth and final day in Bordeaux and to follow us on twitter @BerryBrosRudd for live news about our tasting experiences and insights from our team and the producers themselves.

< Tasting Trip Day 3                       Tasting Trip Day 5 >

Pauillac was our destination as we boarded the minibus and, as usual, Ch. Pichon-Lalande was our first appointment. An estate that has improved impressively during recent years, the wines of 2012 certainly caught our attention. Low yields are found here again – 30hl/ha, with a target for the estate being 45hl/ha, and the requirement for rigorous selection via their optical sorting system (which measures acidity in the juice as well as colourful appearance of the grape) was very important.

Ch. Batailley boasts a long and proud history, with their vineyard planted in classic Pauillac proportions.  It is typically a favourite of ours and often one of the best value wines from the commune. We also took the opportunity to taste several other wines from the Borie-Manoux stable including Domaine de l’Eglise and Ch. la Croix du Casse.

5ème Cru Classé estate Ch. Grand-Puy-Lacoste was our last visit of the morning and they have again outperformed their classification with a super 2012. François-Xavier Borie was keen to point out that their dedicated team of pickers ensured that only the best grapes made it to the cellars. The wine has lovely fresh and vibrant red fruits with good length and a lingering finish. Ch. Haut-Batailley was neatly rounded with good length too.

Tasting continued at  Ch. Lynch Bages just before lunch, where Jean-Charles Cazes explained that the harvest reception system has been changed once again, with two extra reception lines created to destem/sort and then sort again. The result is a very clean crop. We were very impressed with their 2012 wines, including Ch. Villa Bel-Air, Ormes de Pez and Echo de Lynch Bages, which showed an abundance of fruit and poise that has been lacking in some wines of similar levels that we have tasted. The Grand Vin is a real powerhouse and shows a density of fruit and complexity which we have grown accustomed to taste.

The afternoon began at Ch. Beychevelle in St Julien, a property which boasts one of the most impressive châteaux in the whole of the Médoc. It is a joyful mouthful, with soft and ripe tannins and the yield was 42hl/ha. Our next stop was conveniently across the road at Ch. Branaire-Ducru, often a producer of pure, elegant and classic Claret. Patrick Maroteaux explained that the blend was fairly typical, with more or less the same proportions of Merlot (24%), Cabernet Sauvignon (68%) Petit Verdot (5%) and Cabernet Franc (3%). He believes that the style is the same as the last few years, with pure definition of fruit, freshness and elegance . The management and balance of tannin is quite exemplary.

The 2ème Cru Classé property of Ch. Gruaud Larose tends to produce one of St Julien`s most full-bodied and long-lived wines and this year they have really impressed. The Sarget de Gruaud Larose is nice and soft, juicy and with a splendid perfume. The Grand Vin contains 6.5% Petit Verdot, the whole crop for 2012. The freshness is delightful, with ripe yet delicate tannins all harmoniously integrated, before a tremendously long finish.

Ch. Léoville- and Langoa-Barton (both certainties for our buying list this year), Ch. Léoville-Poyferré (promising fruit, good acidity) and then Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou (91% Cabernet Sauvignon, showing Grand Cru finesse, being silky and tremendously well-made) finalised our day.

2012, as with recent Bordeaux vintages like 2011, looks set to be a vintage for relatively early drinking in many cases, but one will need to be carefully selective in choosing the wines. Wines will need to be bought based on the merits of each individual property, rather than the commune or the overall impression of the vintage. It is also worth emphasising once again that we are appraising wines in the context of this vintage, where some have been on really very good form, and some less so.

Remember to return to the blog tomorrow morning for the review of our fourth day in Bordeaux and to follow us on twitter @BerryBrosRudd for live news about our tasting experiences and insights from our team and the producers themselves.

< Tasting Trip Day 2                       Tasting Trip Day 4 >

The main benefit of spending the morning at a négociant was to taste a vast number of wines alongside one another. Max Lalondrelle, our Fine Wine Buying Director, made selections from the book (the menu is quite frankly the longest wine list most of us have ever seen) and we set about comparing, contrasting and analysing wines from across each commune. We started in the Haut-Médoc and moved on to St Emilion (to re-taste many of the wines we enjoyed yesterday) before tasting wines from Pomerol, St Julien, Margaux and St Estèphe. A selection of the wines which we thought were particularly engaging include Ch. la Dominique, Ch. Pedesclaux, Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte and Ch. Capbern Gasqueton. 

After leaving, we set off straight to Margaux for another afternoon of château-hopping. We began at Ch. Angludet (Ben Sichel suggested that the weather caused some problems for the Cabernet Sauvignon but they have managed to harness the fruit to create a really honest, fresh and natural wine – the perfect ingredients for a vintage like this), which produces a wine that our Chairman, Simon Berry, recognises as one of the most typical of all Berrys’ wines. We then moved on to Ch. d’Issan (home to the legendary moat which surrounds the château) and then 2ème Cru Classé Ch. Brane-Cantenac. Following extensive investment and vastly improved vineyard management, this property has shed its underperforming reputation, and their 2012 was one of our favourite wines of the day, showing good weight of fruit, intensity and precision on the long finish.

The wines of Margaux are often said to possess a haunting bouquet and quintessential elegance, two qualities we found in abundance at Ch. Margaux, whose château is one of the most imposing and famous buildings in Bordeaux. Thibault Pontallier told us that Pavillon Rouge is produced from just 30% of the crop this year and Paul Pontallier (Managing Director) confirmed how important selection has been for the 2012s, hence the reduced quantities. 63% of the blend is Cabernet Sauvignon (the property’s best terroir is planted with this variety) and this proportion has been increasing in recent years. The wine is very smooth, harmoniously integrating fruit with acidity and tannin. The Grand Vin is a product of 34% of the crop, and all of the best Cabernet Sauvignon plots. It has a super, intriguingly perfumed nose and is so elegant, almost silky on the palate. Simon Staples remarked that it was the most extraordinary wine we have tasted so far.

We arrived at Ch. Rauzan-Ségla late in the afternoon. Considered along with Ch. Mouton Rothschild to be among the leading 2emé Cru Classé properties in the 19th century, the 2012 Ségla is another product of strict selection in the vineyard. The Cabernet Sauvignon proportion in the blend is reduced this year and it shows, with generous Merlot fruit dancing on the palate. 

Ch. Palmer was our final visit of the day. It was known as a ‘Super Second’ long before many others and often produces as good a wine as can be found in Bordeaux. The yield was just 28hl/ha in 2012, a small crop indeed. Thomas Deroux explains that they had to work hard in the vineyard and sacrifice yields to keep to their traditional six buds per vine. He thinks that Merlot had a classic vintage, whereas Cabernet Sauvignon was more of a challenge, though surprisingly it took just three sessions to arrive at the blending decision. Alter Ego de Palmer offers great power in 2012, with black cherry and menthol fruit coming to the fore. It is the weight of fruit and phenomenal length that impressed us though. The Grand Vin has a gloriously perfumed nose with sumptuous dark fruits and a brooding purple appearance. It is unlike any other wines of the vintage that we have tasted so far; with power and finesse, it is simply exceptional.

We have tasted something in the region of 50-60 wines today and a recurring theme seems to be that strict selections in the vineyard and on the sorting table have been vitally important. Some on the Left Bank struggled to get optimum ripeness in their Cabernet Sauvignon, causing high acidity in the wines. Those who have succeeded were able to balance this acidity with the fruit and oak to create appealing, round and well-structured wines. Merlot looks to be increasingly important and the temptation to over-extract has been ignored in the most promising wines. We would expect that the 2012s will spend less time in barrel this year to preserve the lovely fruit.

The importance of the wine merchant’s role in vintages such as 2012 shouldn’t be underestimated. 25 members of our team will be visiting Bordeaux during the course of the next three weeks, so please do consider our Private Account Managers’ individual advice alongside the views and scores from our buying group this week. We will also endeavour to share as many notes and scores as possible from various sources on bbr.com when they become available.

Remember to return to the blog tomorrow morning for the review of our third day in Bordeaux and to follow us on twitter @BerryBrosRudd for live news about our tasting experiences and insights from our team and the producers themselves.

< Tasting Trip Day 1                       Tasting Trip Day 3 >

There is something special about tasting wine at the site where it is created and having the chance to take in a vineyard’s terroir, topography and location. Not only does it enhance the experience, it also focuses the mind, and it is certainly much easier to appraise a wine in such an environment.

As in previous years, we took the opportunity to taste one or two wines from the new vintage on Sunday evening, to whet palates and remind ourselves that we were tasting samples from barrel. Alexander Van Beek, General Manager at Ch. du Tertre and Ch. Giscours, told us that, whilst 2012 isn’t an exceptional vintage, it has certainly produced good wines – the aid of technology, education and greater attention in the vineyard, as well as more focused selections on the sorting table, really means that disastrous vintages should be issues consigned to the past.

We tried many wines at Moueix, but La Fleur-Pétrus and Ch. Hosanna certainly caught our attention. Christian Moueix explained that 2012 was a difficult vintage with challenging climatic conditions, resulting in disease and uneven berries. This ultimately led to a reduction in yields, to almost half the usual harvest. A new addition to the itinerary was to taste at Ch. Pétrus this year; Simon Staples found the 2012 to be racy, harmonious and beautiful. The appearance in the glass was simply stunning as well – so appealing.

Ch. Larcis Ducasse, long regarded as a property possessing exceptional terroir, has created a lovely, serious and well-structured 2012 from its clay and chalk soils found on the famous Côte Pavie. We also tasted many wines from the Thienpont stable, including Ch. Berliquet, Ch. Pavie Macquin (very generous, abundant fruit) and Ch. Beauséjour – all of which suggest that the Merlot in St Emilion could be a success this year.

Ch. Figeac is a favourite of our former Wine Buying Director, Alun Griffiths MW, and we’re sure he will enjoy their 2012. Containing an equal 40% of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon alongside 20% Cabernet Franc, it is precise, deep, tightly knit and pretty with red berry and blackcurrant fruits combining superbly with impressive tannins.

Our final stop of the morning took us to Ch. Angélus, recently promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé A status in the 2012 St Emilion re-classification. It is found less than a kilometre from the famous St Emilion steeple. The wine is complex this year, tightly woven and showing effective grip, but it has a thorough backdrop of fruit to please as well. Hubert de Bouard supported the words of Alexander Van Beek with regards to improvements in winemaking, as well as suggesting that, unlike today, 25 years ago such a vintage would have created very average wines indeed.

The afternoon started at Ch. Ausone, one of the most stunning châteaux in Bordeaux, whose vineyards flourish on a steep, south-east facing slope. The wines showed well including Ch. de Fonbel and Ch. Moulin St-Georges. Ch. Cheval Blanc followed, as is customary on these tasting trips, and the Grand Vin displayed a classically crunchy palate of fruit. We really enjoyed tasting the Grand Vin this year.

The two most famous Pomerol estates, Vieux Château Certan (VCC) and Ch. la Conseillante, were our mid-afternoon appointments. VCC is regularly praised by leading wine critics and journalists and Alexandre Thienpont’s wine is on good form as usual.  Ch. la Conseillante can trace its history back to 1735 and is always bottled unfiltered. Yields were high this year, so they were able to be very selective, yet still produce more of the Grand Vin than in 2011. Jean-Michel Laporte tells us that it is 89% Merlot this year. It is seamlessly balanced and wonderfully generous, and was a personal favourite of mine from this first day. 

Tasting at Le Pin brought our first day to an excellent conclusion; it is the second year in succession that we have tasted at their unassertive new winery. ‘Rare’, ‘expensive’, ‘mysterious’, ‘super-concentrated’ and ‘sublimely elegant’ are all words often associated with Le Pin and Jacques Thienpont has produced another charming wine in 2012. Clean, fresh and full of fruit, it lingers on the palate long after tasting. It is a real triumph.

As we round off our first day, it is difficult to draw too many conclusions about the vintage – especially as we have only tasted in Pomerol and St Emilion – but Merlot appears to have been particularly successful on the Right Bank.

Remember to return to the blog tomorrow morning for the review of our second day in Bordeaux and to follow us @BerryBrosRudd on Twitter for live news about our tasting experiences and insights from our team and the producers themselves.

Tasting Trip Day 2 >

Our colleagues from Hong Kong (Simon Staples and Adam Bilbey) and Singapore (Nicolas Pegna) will meet us in Bordeaux later this afternoon, but  Jake Dean (Fine Wine Sales Director), Max Lalondrelle (Fine Wine Buying Director)and I are joined in the advanced group this year by a new addition to our usual Bordeaux Buying team, Chairman Simon Berry. Although a regular and almost annual visitor to Bordeaux since the age of 12 when he took part in a school exchange trip, this is Simon’s first visit to taste the new vintage en primeur since circa 1984. Simon recalls how in those days, all of the wines were gathered together in the company’s office in the city for tasting, so it will be fascinating to see how things have changed as we make our way to many individual châteaux during the course of the week.

As we settle down to the first evening at our base in Margaux, discussions have inevitably started turning to the quality and style we expect to find in the wines this week. As was the case in 2011, very little has been written in advance of this Bordeaux vintage. Fortunately, our Fine Wine Buying Director, Max Lalondrelle, took the opportunity to taste several wines and speak to one or two châteaux during a brief visit to Bordeaux in the middle of March. He commented that 2012 is an extremely variable vintage and is not one that he could make any obvious comparisons with from previous years. It also looks to be another ‘Wine Merchant’s vintage’ where price will be a key issue and customers will need all of the advice, expertise and information they can find to select the best buys. In total, 25 members of our UK, Hong Kong, Singapore and Japanese teams will be tasting wines in Bordeaux this year at 57 different châteaux, so we will be able to provide a comprehensive and broad view of the quality and potential of the 2012s when we have all returned and collated our thoughts.

Our schedule hasn’t changed much in recent years, but we are excited about two or three additions to the itinerary this year, Ch. Petrus, Ch. la Tour Martillac and Ch. Belgrave. We start on the Right Bank tomorrow (Monday) and our diary is as busy as usual, with visits to Ch. Figeac and Ch. Angélus in the morning, before Ch. Ausone and Ch. Cheval Blanc among others in the afternoon.

Remember to return to the blog tomorrow morning for the review of our first day in Bordeaux and @berrybrosrudd on Twitter for live news about our tasting experiences and insights from our team and the producers themselves.

As well as working at out Bin End Shop in Basingstoke, for the last four years I have also travelled around the country pouring and promoting Berrys’ Own Spirits on many Saturdays throughout the year.

The majority of these are festivals run by a company called The Whisky Lounge, who also happen to be the sister company to the UK wholesale distributors of the Berrys’ Own Spirits  range the Great Whisky Company.  The Whisky Lounge events are intended to be a relaxed and accessible way to enjoy whisky, with very reasonable entry prices (which unlike some festivals give you unlimited access to all the whiskies on the various exhibitors’ tables), a glass to taste with and then take home, some tokens to try special “under the counter” drams and even access to some free masterclasses.

For the last few years, the season has begun in the delightful venue of the Civic Centre In Newcastle and this year was no different. 

For the exhibitors it’s an excellent chance to catch up with each other after the Christmas break (the last festival of 2012 was back in October), try some new releases that have come out in the previous few months and also to see some familiar faces amongst the consumers from previous years, whilst at the same time introducing new people to our range and company in general.

On our stand this year are 10 of our Berry’s Own Selection Whiskies, plus our XO Armagnac and the ever popular The King’s Ginger.  Due to the nature of being an Independent Bottler, most of which are single cask, we have arguably the greatest range of the exhibitors.  Not only in terms of numbers of products we show, but also in terms of style – from the rarer Single Grain whisky (we actually have two of these this year) through lighter Lowland to peaty Islay, with a heavily sherried Speyside thrown in for good measure.  The age of our whiskies is another thing which greatly varies from a 9 year old to a stunning 37 year old.

As we like to keep the same lineup for the whole year where possible, this means there are often whiskies on our stand which have sold out through the usual Berry Bros. & Rudd channels and are only available to taste and buy at the festivals.

Such an example at Newcastle was our recently bottled Braes of Glenlivet, which has proved such a hit due to its approachable nose of Rhubarb and custard and fruity nature, that there are only a handful of bottles left in each of our shops.

The Whisky Lounge festivals, in particular, are a superb way to be introduced to whisky festivals, and if you do decide to attend one, please do stop by at our stand for a chat and a dram (or two!).

This year the list of towns and cities we’ll be visiting is bigger than ever before from Aberdeen in the north to Brighton in the south and Bristol in the west, to name but three.

To find out when we’ll be in your area, visit the Whisky Louge’s website here.

If you can’t make any of the Whisky Festivals, don’t worry, we have biannual Whisky Days in the Bin End Shop in Basingstoke too.  The next one  will be on Saturday 20^th April, when I’ll be pitting Berrys’ Own bottlings against their official distillery bottled counterparts and Alex Ross will be showcasing a selection of whiskies from distilleries that are sadly no longer with us. Full details here.

The following morning, Jason and I headed to Ch. Léoville-Las Cases where he was taken round the vineyard by the vineyard manager while I tasted the range of 2012s from all their estates (Nenin in Pomerol, Potensac, Clos du Marquis and Las Cases in St Julien). Geordie joined us and we then headed to Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou. I have spent quite a bit of time in wineries in my career and, after a while, I have to admit that they all look the same – but I am always in admiration of the people behind the wines. Despite modern technology, vineyard workers whose families have been working in the same place for generations use the same old skills, such as racking with a candle and fining with egg whites.

There was an older man there half my size who was lifting empty barrels above his head and stacking them up, whilst another younger chap, who was the second generation, was racking and making a seal made of Jonc (rush) for the ‘bonde’. This is the kind of stuff I really like and admire and we rarely take time to watch. After a lot of watching, Bruno Borie (who is one of the Bordeaux grands hommes, and someone for whom I have a lot of respect) took us into his kitchen for a bite to eat. Bruno loves food and cooking; his kitchen is not any ordinary kitchen, it has all the toys you could ever wish for. We sat down at the table and had some lovely white asparagus (I still do not know why we eat green asparagus in the UK) with sauce hollandaise, followed by a simple but most delicious omelette with spring garlic, finished off with a just-released 24-month matured Comté.
All this with some 2001 Riesling, Cuvée Frédéric Emile by Trimbach (I love this wine) and a bottle of both the 2004 and the delicious 2000 Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou. We could have stayed there all day but we had our last encounter of the trip with Jean-Charles Cazes at Ch. Lynch Bages to taste his 2011s (2012 is not to be showed until the official date) and a quick tour of the winery. We spent a bit of time in the smaller white wine cellar looking at the different bâtonnage techniques. Blanc de Lynch Bages, like the majority of white Bordeaux, is not talked about much but over the last few years has turned from a quite oaky and heavy style to a great, fresh, yet still very Bordeaux style of wine which I very much enjoy. We said our goodbyes to Lynch Bages and headed for the airport.

Although, I have yet to go round the 57 chateaux that we will visit during the week of the 8th of April, I have now been to Bordeaux twice during the harvest and have tasted a few of the 2012s in their infancy, and my opinion is starting to emerge of the vintage. For what I have seen and tasted so far, I think we might have a better vintage in 2012 than 2011: a better but very different vintage.

When I was there during the harvest, all the vines and bunches looked very healthy and, despite a few problems at flowering and véraison in the summer, the very hot end of August readjusted the imbalance and the vintage looked like it would be saved. Until, that is, just after I left in October, when the heavens opened and never closed. For those who had harvested their Merlot (the majority) all was good but the Cabernets needed a few more days/weeks to ripen to their full potential and, unfortunately, with the dormant rot ready to deploy, they then had to be rushed to the winery. For those with technology this should not be too much of a problem but for others, in the Médoc in particular, the lack of ripeness may come through in the wines. The Merlot-dominant wines will have done well. The same will apply for the domaines which have the best terroirs and where the Cabernets are well-exposed and on higher ground. The work in the winery will no doubt contribute more to success this year than many others, and we will have to be aware of the ‘make-up’ applied to some of the wines.

From Monday, 8th April, we will be reporting fully on the 2012 Bordeaux’s, from vineyard to vineyard. So, for in-depth coverage and understanding of this complicated vintage, follow us on Twitter or look out for our daily blog posts.

As we arrived in Bordeaux, we were disappointed to see that the weather wasn’t ‘au rendez vous’ and was going to be as grim as in the UK for the length of our stay. Not deterred, and hoping that the blue sky would eventually percolate through the clouds, we headed to my favourite boutique hotel, La Maison Bord’eaux. Our bags dropped, we went straight into Bordeaux for a photo-shoot of the old part of town. As the daylight waned, it was time to sit down, do a bit of people-watching and decide where we should eat. In France on a Sunday evening the number of options is very small but there is one that always whets my appetite: L’Entrecôte. This is fast food the French way. It is also the only restaurant I know that has 100 customers queuing outside pretty much every night; they sell the best steak frites you will ever have. The only questions the waitress asks are about how your steak is cooked and the colour of the wine.

The following morning we drove to Margaux in the north-west of Bordeaux. The perceived handicap of the weather very quickly turned to Jason’s advantage as the most dramatic scenery unfolded before us with intensely dark clouds, hail storms and side winds… the lot. In terms of photography, this added the extra dimension and drama that Jason required for some spectacular shots of the otherwise over-photographed, postcard-like château fronts.

We finally arrived at Ch. Palmer where Thomas Duroux, the man in charge, opened the doors for us to take cover. We visited the new, very understated but well-performing winery and were the first outsiders to have the privilege to taste the 2012 vintage. We then sat down for lunch and tasted the (not-quite-secret-anymore), Palmer Blanc, which I must say is rather good and getting better with every vintage, followed by the main course and some 1991 Ch. Palmer. 1991 is one of those forgotten vintages that always surprises me; the frost decimated most of the vineyards that year but for the reminder of the growing season all was well and, although there was little produced, the majority of top 1991s are very good, if you can find them.

From Palmer we drove all the way back across to the other side of the river in Pomerol (a good one-hour journey) to Ch. la Conseillante, where we had a tour of the brand new cuvier. The tour over, we went straight to the new, rather clinical, upstairs tasting room with views over most of Pomerol. We tasted the Duo de Conseillante and the 2012 Ch. la Conseillante while we were there.

In order to maximize my trips to Bordeaux, I sometimes invite a group of bon vivant château owners/managers for dinner in town to avoid having to drive to all the properties. This also allows us to see them in a less formal environment and to share a very open and convivial evening. The closure of my favourite Bordeaux restaurant a year ago was dramatic for me but, fortunately, it reopened a couple of months ago in a new setting in rue Le Coq. L’Univerre is not, gastronomically, the best place to eat in Bordeaux but it is my favourite restaurant because it has excellent, comforting food and the best list of non-Bordeaux wines in Bordeaux. Fabrice, the man in charge, has an encyclopaedic knowledge of wine which would put a lot of merchants to shame. As my guests sat down, I quickly picked up the wine list and set out to choose the wines to serve blind, which included the delicious 2004 Donnhof Spätlese to go with the dessert. The atmosphere was very good and it was a thoroughly enjoyable evening.

To hear about more Left Bank visits and to find out Max’s views so far on the 2012 vintage, read the second part of his blog here.

What is the en primeur system?

In a nutshell, en primeur (or wine futures) refers to the system by which Châteaux sell their wine from the barrel; that is, before it has been bottled and delivered to customers (and also before it’s ready to be drunk). The wine is sold at a keen price, in return for payment up front, which helps the Châteaux fund the next vintage.

It was developed by the Bordeaux wine trade although other regions such as Rhône, Burgundy and even parts of the new world now choose to offer some of their wines en primeur.

How does it work?

The en primeur ‘campaign’ is a yearly event stretching from spring into summer, depending on the vintage. Each April, Bordeaux is besieged by merchants, journalists and enthusiasts, who taste the new vintage and make their judgements, prior to the release of the prices.

Merchants taste the wine and although the wines are still in barrel and are very youthful, an experienced merchant can sense the quality and longevity of the wines and make a corresponding judgement on what is a fair price. Each year we send our sales teams across to Bordeaux to participate and make up their own minds- you’ll soon be able to follow their progress on our blog, Facebook page and Twitter account.

The châteaux then set the price for their wine and release a first tranche (generally a small quantity) for sale. Depending on how this sells, they may release a second, bigger tranche at a slightly higher price. The merchant buys the quantity they think they will sell and offers this to their customers.

It varies from region to region but in the case of Bordeaux, two years after the sale the wines are shipped to the merchant who purchased them and the customer, who purchased them from the merchant, can choose to take delivery or can store them with their merchant for an annual fee.

Why should I buy wine this way?

There are two main advantages to buying wine en primeur:

Availability: You get ‘first dibs’ before the wine goes on general sale plus you get access to wines made in limited quantities which often won’t be widely available later on.

Price: The earlier in the process you buy the wine, the cheaper it is likely to be. And generally all wines purchased en primeur will be cheaper than buying them ‘off the shelf’ in a few years’ time.

Plus at the time you are offered the wine, you pay purely for the liquid in the bottle. Duty and VAT is then due at point of delivery to your home – so it’s also an effective way of spreading the total cost of your purchase.

In hotly-anticipated vintages, the system may allow you to get some great deals because not only is the wine usually at its cheapest when bought en primeur, it may also be the best chance for securing sought-after wines.

What else do I need to know?

Cases are sold in full, unsplit cases so it’s a great way to stock your cellar for future drinking.

You should always buy from a reputable merchant as you are effectively purchasing something that is not in its finished state yet. Buying from a well-known merchant makes your purchase less risky.

En primeur is not just for first growths and the most expensive wines. All levels of wine are represented so you can start off small if you’re new to buying this way. This means that whilst many wines are sold for investment purposes, a significant chunk will be drunk and enjoyed in years to come.

For more information, visit our website or contact our Fine Wine Team

Starting at the most northerly point of the Right Bank, Bourg and Blaye lie up river near to the southern tip of the great estuary itself, while you have to travel much further south to the banks of the River Dordogne before you stumble across Fronsac and Canon Fronsac, then Pomerol and Lalande de Pomerol, and finally St Emilion and its satellites.

It is the fleshy Merlot grape which dominates this side of the river, which is sometimes supported by Cabernet Franc in the blend (although at the famous St Emilion property Château Cheval Blanc, Cabernet Franc predominates). The soils are more mixed than on the Left Bank, with clay on top of limestone underpinning the rich, fruity wines of Pomerol. Styles vary more in St Emilion, depending on the predominance of sand in the lower lying slopes, or limestone on the hillsides and plateau.

Another difference this side of the river is the size of the wine estates. The grand châteaux of the Left Bank are mostly large estates, whereas the Right Bank properties tend to be much smaller. This is demonstrated by their production: typically Château Lafite-Rothschild will produce 45,000 cases per annum, whereas Pomerol’s Château Petrus makes around 2,000-3,500 cases.

The 1855 Médoc Classification did not include any Right Bank properties, which is why you do not find any First Growths here. However, St Emilion has its own classification system and whereas the Médoc Classification was set in stone in 1855, St Emilion revises and updates its classifications every 10 years or so. Rather than being judged on price, as with the 1855 Classification, châteaux have to apply for inclusion and are judged by a tasting of their wines from the previous 10 vintages. The Classification groups the best wines into two categories, Premier Grand Cru Classé (which is sub-divided into the rather unglamorous tiers ‘A’ and ‘B’), and the less illustrious Grand Cru Classé. St Emilion may boast Bordeaux’s most meritocratic and up-to-date classification, but the names for its various tiers leave a great deal to be desired. It also leads to much confusion between the overly grandiose and frankly misleading use of Grand Cru for wines that are often distinctly ordinary and barely better than basic appellation wine, and the normally vastly superior Grand Cru Classé whose name is virtually the same (the ‘A’ and ‘B’ sub-categories of Premier Grand Cru Classé are clumsy and rarely used)

In the 2006 Classification, the following châteaux were recognised as the best:

Premiers Grands Crus Classés (A)
Château Ausone
Château Cheval Blanc

Premiers Grands Crus Classés (B)
Château Canon
Château Belair
Château Clos Fourtet
Château Trotte Vieille
Château Angélus
Château Figeac
Château Beau-Séjour Bécot
Château la Gaffelière
Château Beauséjour
Château Magdelaine
Château Pavie
Château Pavie-Macquin
Château Troplong-Mondot

There has never been a classification of Pomerol wines, although the following châteaux are considered some of the best:

Château Pétrus
Vieux Château Certan
Le Pin
Château l’Eglise-Clinet
Château la Conseillante
Château l’Evangile
Château Lafleur`
Château Trotanoy
Château Nenin
Château Beauregard
Château Feytit-Clinet
Château le Gay

Travelling north to south, the Left Bank includes the appellations of the Médoc, Haut-Médoc and Pessac-Léognan which predominantly produce top-class red wines, then Graves where the great dry whites come from as well as some red wines, and finally Barsac and Sauternes which are renowned for their sweet white wines.

Within the Médoc are the world-famous communes of St Estèphe, Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux (along with the less-illustrious Listrac and Mouis), while a little further south you will find Pessac-Léognan which was awarded its own appellation as recently as 1987. These five communes are home to all the great First Growths of the 1855 Médoc Classification (Mouton-Rothschild was promoted to the top tier in 1973; this is the only change to the original Classification):

Château Margaux (Margaux)
Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac)
Château Latour (Pauillac)
Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac)
Château Haut Brion (Pessec-Léognan)

Unlike their Right Bank counterparts, Left Bank red wines are dominated by the late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon, which thrives on the gravelly soils left by the ancient course of the river.  This is a thick-skinned variety which ripens late, producing powerful, tannic wines capable of long ageing. The early-ripening Merlot is the second most important grape. Two other varieties make up the classic Left-Bank-blend: Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the latter playing a minor role. Historically Carmenère and Malbec were commonplace, but nowadays they more easily found in Chile and Argentina, respectively. 

Much further south, about 20kms upstream from Bordeaux town, the River Garonne’s morning mists evaporate during the day to encourage the spread of botrytis cinerea (noble rot), a fungus that attacks the grapes and causes them to become intensely sweet. This is where Barsac and Sauternes are situated, and Bordeaux’s only Superior First Growth, Château d’Yquem (Sauternes). There are numerous First Growths within these two communes:

Château Guiraud (Sauternes)
Clos Haut-Peyraguey (Sauternes)
Château La Tour Blanche (Sauternes)
Château Coutet (Barsac)
Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Sauternes)
Château Climens (Barsac)
Château de Rayne Vigneau (Sauternes)
Château Suduiraut (Sauternes)
Château Sigalas Rabaud (Sauternes)
Château Rieussec (Sauternes)
Château Rabaud-Promis (Sauternes)

Bordeaux’s white grape varieties comprise the Sémillon, the most important grape for sweet wine production, and Sauvignon Blanc which is Sémillon’s minor partner in Bordeaux’s sweet wines and has become increasingly important in the region’s dry whites. The only other white variety sanctioned by the appellation’s laws is Muscadelle. All three varieties are used in both sweet and white wines, although the blends vary enormously (Sémillon is the majority shareholder in sweet blends, and Sauvignon Blanc in dry blends).

Look out for our guide to Bordeaux’s Right Bank next week!

As a grape variety, Chardonnay in its most natural state can be quite simple and basic but its plainness has a wonderful affinity with terroir and soils, particularly limestone. What makes Chardonnay intriguing, despite its fairly neutral character is how that influence of soils, climate, winemaking and wood can change this grape from something somewhat ‘beige’ into one of the greatest grape varieties in the world. Needless to say, its ability to pair with many dishes makes it all the more appealing.

Chardonnay’s fame is long established in sparkling wine production, particularly Champagne, as a vital ingredient for acidity, crispness, elegance and wonderfully balanced sparkle, even without the need for the other two permitted red grape varieties in Champagne production. We were treated to an example of this purely white Champagne known as Blanc de Blancs, from the Taittinger Champagne house as our event aperitif. Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blanc was first produced in 1952 as a finely aromatic, rich and creamy expression of the Chardonnay grape. The 2000 vintage accompanied by a selection of fine canapés including Blinis au Caviar, Choux au Comte and Tartelette de Volaille whetted ones appetite on the sloped floors of the St James’s Street store whilst the busy chef’s two floors below us prepared our feast.

After a brief introduction to the event from Mark Pardoe MW and opening words from Michel Roux Jr, we descended the cellar stairs to the long awaited dinner.

From a Chardonnay Champagne to the ultimate expression of bone dry Chardonnay, Le Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche from Domaine Joseph Drouhin, is a single Grand Cru Vineyard in the Côte de Beaune of Burgundy. Le Montrachet is a tiny area covering just less than 8 hectares of pristine, gently sloping vineyards (on Chardonnay’s beloved limestone) with dawn until dusk sunshine. A favourite quote of Jasper Morris MW are the words of Abbe Arnoux in 1728 who correctly describes Le Montrachet as ‘a wine that has qualities of which neither the Latin nor French language can explain the sweetness…I am not able to express the delicacy or excellence’. The majestic 2008 vintage we tasted echoes this greatness despite being almost impossible to describe in words.

This Fine and Rare dinner gave us all an opportunity to taste this great white wine and in three different ways; firstly on its own, then with two contrasting fish dishes designed to heighten certain aspects of the wines complex characteristics.

When the bottle was first poured I was determined to delve deep into the glass to name the exact aromas and flavours I found. Too often when I taste Le Montrachet do I find that my tasting notes are filled with words describing the intensity, the length, the structure, the balance, the power, the finish and its perfection etc., but very few sensory descriptions. It is very difficult. I am afraid that yet again I was overawed by the wine because more so than ever do I think that Le Montachet’s secret runs much deeper than minerals, orange flower, acacia or butter notes. By being almost impossible to describe, it sings of its terroir and of Le Montrachet. Its perfection becomes its tasting note.

For the first dish we wanted to look at the delicacy and texture of the wine matched with the light herbal butter sauce and relatively meaty T-Bone of Wild Turbot. The Montrachet balanced beautifully with the many complex, pretty characteristics which nestled in amongst the natural acidity. Other than perhaps a ballerina, little in life contains such haunting delicacy and finesse whilst possessing a huge, hidden strength. Never overpowering, never too much.

Next appealed to the wines depth of flavour with a dish of scallops and shrimps in a velvety lobster sauce. Rather than the lightness and restrain, this required the Montrachet to open and show its weight to contend with the richness and texture in the dish. There was less of a need for lightness and pretty characters and more for Montrachet’s famous buttery, silky palate.

Moving onwards to the nucleus of the dinner, the Filet de Bœuf, Beignets de Moelle et Purée de Truffes and a chance to taste a brace of ‘perfect’ 100/100 wines from the 1989 vintage. Chateau La Mission Haut Brion and Chateau Haut Brion share the same appellation of Pessac Leognan, the same gravel terrain that the Graves is famous for alongside both sharing a clay and sand subsoil. To continue, the winemaking team for both Le Mission Haut Brion and Haut Brion were the same and they are both owned by the family of American financier Clarence Dillon. Trying two such theoretically similar wines side by side with a single, blindingly brilliant dish was an honour. If I may explain further.

The roasted Galloway beef tasted as though it had been created for wines such as the two bottles before us. Beef is a glorious meat and deserves an equally brilliant wine match. Red Bordeaux works especially well with traditional recipes and for an event of this scale, it had to be Claret and it had to be the stuff of legends. 1989 Chateau La Mission Haut Brion is rich, oaky and complex with brooding red fruit that grips powerfully. These wines have a strong presence of terroir asserted by the darkest shade of chocolate and a distinctive smokiness that melds effortlessly with pure silk tannins. The wood gives foundations for long aging and in brief, this is without doubt a food friendly wine. 1989 Chateau Haut Brion captured my heart; how the aromatics tease the nose, the way it moves in the glass, the subtleties that add layer upon layer upon layer of beguiling complexity. The characteristics of cigar-box and the duo of red and black currant add lift above the richness of cassis and smoked spices.

Scientific research has shown that astringent wine and fatty meat are on opposite ends of a sensory spectrum and that the taste buds for a human palate love the sensation of opposites at the same time. That flavour and sensory impression of fat needs a balance of acidity and weight to cleanse the palate ready for the next mouthful. Despite the focus usually being on the more acclaimed wine in a side by side tasting, in this case a classified first growth (from the 1855 classification) against its equally illustrious, yet unclassified neighbour from across the street in suburban Bordeaux. The 1989 La Mission Haut Brion was more than an equal match.

The 1989 Chateau Haut Brion left my senses in awe and for many of the table was the wine of the night. This is of course subjective. By itself as a glass of wine, I will always long for 1989 Chateau Haut Brion but despite its incredible array of aromas and a notebook filled with ever changing descriptions, the opposition Chateau Mission Haut Brion for me took the gold as a match to the beef. Perhaps the extra level of wood, the resilient structure, the refreshing acidity and the savoury elements combined just that little bit better with the bone marrow, truffle and the exceptionally tender, juicy Galloway beef. The wine enhanced the dish which in turn improved the wine.

With a sweet tooth, I have a complete soft spot for pudding but when Roquefort tastes this good I would gladly never eat chocolate again in my life, especially if paired with the sweet 1975 Ch. Climens, a 1er Cru Classé from Barsac in Bordeaux. It can be fairly complex to match wine to a cheeseboard in but on this case when one is singled out it makes our job a little easier. Similar to the scientific study I mentioned earlier suggesting opposites attract, the rich salt tang of Roquefort and the honeyed sweetness of Sauternes make for a harmonious match made in heaven. Or in this case France.

To finish, a 1920 Bual Madeira from Blandy. Michel and I talked in detail about Madeira before the event, we both love the wines and advocate various styles in a food and wine matching capacity. Not enough people know of the delights of Madeira but in general, it has so many differing nuances from marmalade, caramel, roast coffee, sweet spice, nuts, tan leather and fresh wood plus a gloriously high acidity that doesn’t overwhelm food. The acidity is what cuts through fat, cream, spice, rich sauces and strong cheeses making it very food friendly. To pair with Michel’s chocolate macaroons, the 1920 had mellowed to roast spices, crushed nuts, dark chocolate and deep caramel and the acidity renewed the palate between bits and sips.

From a food and wine matching perspective, this event offered the essence of why food and wine belong together and the true benefits to considering flavours in wine almost as an extension to an ingredient list of a dish. This was simply the finest expressions of fine food tasting with fine wine matching that I have had the pleasure to be a part of.

Chinese commercial wine production began in 1892 when an overseas Chinese diplomat, Zhang Bishi, started his winery in Yantai.  He imported half a million plants from the USA and appointed the Austrian consul, Freiherr von Babo, as his winemaker.  Most of the plants failed to survive and history does not recount whether von Babo knew how to make wine, but nevertheless today the company is by far the biggest in the country, with a turnover of nearly US$800.

Château Changyu (or, to give it its full name, Changyu Pioneer Wine Company) is China’s oldest and largest wine producer, and among the top ten in the world in terms. The company has embarked on an extraordinary programme of building European-style châteaux, architecturally based on examples from Bordeaux. The two properties we now represent are Ch. Changyu Moser in Ningxia and Ch. Changyu Golden Ice Wine Valley in Liaoning.

Château Changyu Moser XV was developed in consultation with Lenz Moser of the famous Austrian wine family, who has spent several years working with Changyu before identifying Ningxia as his preferred location, which he compares to the Mendoza wine region in Argentina in terms of climate and soil, and having his château built.

Ch. Changyu Golden Ice Wine Valley is located further afield in the extraordinarily remote region of Liaoning which has very good conditions for ice wine production and this huge estate is capable of producing 300,000 bottles per annum, using the Vidal variety.

China is now the eighth largest producer of wine in the world and predicted to be the sixth largest by 2016, and Chinese consumers already drink over 1.6 billion bottles of wine annually, which is forecast to grow by a further 1 billion by 2015. What’s more, the Chinese have also acquired a taste for fine wine: they are now the second biggest buyers of top Claret by volume behind Germany.

Mark Pardoe, Berrys’ Wine Buying Director said “It seems that the predictions we made in our ‘Future of Wine Report’ in 2008 are already beginning to come true – and this is a first step towards serious international recognition. China is already the eighth largest producer of wine in the world so it was only a matter of time before it entered the international market and its huge geographical size and range of climates mean that there must be regions capable of producing good wine. Until now the country’s focus has been on its volume-driven domestic market, and other export efforts have been based on external investment.  Changyu’s strategy represents a change, with home-grown investment in partnership with international expertise, with a real will to get things done, so the time felt right to take an early temperature of the water.”

 1. 2008 Chateau Changyu Moser XV, Ningxia

A combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grape varieties. The wine is aged in French oak barrels for 12 months to create a robust and full-bodied lasting flavour. The grapes are grown in the Central Western Ningxia region of China, where long hours of sunlight allow the berries to fully ripen. It is however in a field of one at the moment and gives a fascinating glimpse of a possible future of Chinese reds.

 2. Chateau Changyu Gold Label Ice Wine, Liaoning

The lightest of the three Chinese ice wines stocked by Berry Bros. & Rudd, the wine is made from the juice of the third crush of the Vidal grape and accounts for 75% of the estate’s total ice wine production.  Because the fruit for ice wine is frozen, but healthy and not botrytised, the attack is always very fresh and pure, with a very positive level of acidity. Here the profile is more of citrus and tropical fruits, blossom and honey. 

3. Chateau Changyu Blue Label Ice Wine, Liaoning

A more intense wine than the Gold label, this rich golden coloured wine has a spicy honey note and a richer viscosity, with aromas of lychee and pear. On the palate, this wine creates an intense expression with the richness of the residual sugar coating the palate, both of which are combined with a long lasting finish that balances the overall flavour. Able to be stored for many years, this wine will develop more complexity and sherry flavours, softening the overall sweetness of the wine.

4. Chateau Changyu Black Label Ice Wine, Liaoning

A unique selection made from the first press creates an unctuous, thick, deeply sweet and richly flavoured wine, with a spectrum of apricot, pineapple and vanilla – suggesting the influence of new oak which it has, in fact, not received.  Almost too rich for cuisine, this is to be sipped, slowly and meditatively.

Mark concluded “While this may be a small selection of wines, they are a sign of things to come. Chateau Changyu has led the way in bringing in expertise from the Old and New World wine makers and is creating some top-class wines. However, there will be other winemakers hot on their heels and we expect to taste wines of great quality from more Chinese producers. Amongst the so-called ‘new New World’ wine regions, China is definitely in the ascendant.”

View these Chinese wines on our website >

2011 Chambertin Clos de Beze, Grand Cru

Gentle, but building, fragrant black fruit on the nose, restrained and regal. Fabulously lush black berry-fruit on the palate with the finest of tannins framing the fruit perfectly, while a lick of crisp acidity freshens the finish. A very serious wine indeed. (Chris Pollington)

2011 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru

Dark, rich spicy and fragrant fruit on the nose, beginning to open up nicely. Savoury dark fruit in the mouth with a full, yet in-balance structure, this is a very big, deep wine and is built for the long term. This will be an amazing wine in 5-10 years time. (Chris Pollington)

2011 Corton Charlemagne, Grand Cru

Big, rich and toasty on the nose, which is reflected on the palate, where notes of butter and rich and ripe (but not overripe) citrus fruit are added into the mix. This is more savoury and serious than many a Corton Charlemagne and is a much better wine for it, in my opinion. Both richness and finesse are the hallmarks of this excellent wine, which is balanced by well-judged, mouth-watering acidity. (Chris Pollington)

2011 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Lavrottes, 1er Cru

A characteristically full throttle Chambolle from Bernstein; full and dark, laden with bright blueberry, and black cherry fruits. Well maintained acidity, lovely balance. (Martyn Rolph)

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, 1er Cru

Good density with a solid core of fruit dark fruit, supported by ripe but firm tannins. There’s attractive bramble spice throughout, and well balanced and so a silky, svelte feel on show here. (Martyn Rolph)

Puligny-Montrachet, Champ Gain, 1er Cru

You’ll be treated to an exuberant nose of apple, melon and toasty oak, but this leads to a more restrained and focussed palate, very typical of Puligny. Fine acidity provides the energy that drives the flavours along, well balance with an attractive finish. There is more texture here than you’ll find in many a Puligny, it will mature beautifully over the coming 3-5 years. (Martyn Rolph)

2011 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru

Simon Staples in a glass! Big, bold , flashy with finesse, in about 15 years’ time. Lots of dark fruit on the nose. Palate was not the easiest to taste but I’d hope the abundance of red and blue fruits will mature to give one a spectacular glass of wine and with this will come the finesse that was hiding around of many complex corners of this wine. (Ben Upjohn)

2011 Meursault, Les Charmes, 1er Cru 

What a wine! Fresh, zingy complex and well structured. Perfectly balanced and although could do with a bit of aging surprisingly approachable now. Would give some of the more well know Charmes a run for their money! (Ben Upjohn)

2011 Gevrey Chambertin

This is very serious village wine, no doubt about it. Laden with fennel and fresh liquorice notes, this is already showing a complex, pure palate. With the trademark Bernstein elegance this is one to enjoy now or over the coming 3 to 4 years. (Gary Owen)

2011 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux, 1er Cru

70 year old wines contribute hugely to a precise, very well made Champeaux. The combination of rich oak and round tannins coat the mouth elegantly and this delivers a weighty finish. Detailed throughout with layer upon layer of fruit and sweet spice. (Gary Owen)

2011 Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru

First things first – this is top draw, textbook Mazis. Persistent, detailed, & balanced structure yet with lacy sweet red, and almost meaty fruit. There is a distinct sweet ‘Game Larder’ nuance to this most intriguing of wines. Refined, supple yet wonderfully powerful. (Gary Owen)

Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru

This was the first of the Grand Cru’s I tasted and the step up was impressive. Oozing the sexy opulent fruit that you would expect from Charmes and the class comes on the finish where everything focusses in with the cherry fruit being joined by spice and texture. (Matt Tipping)

Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru

Dark brooding, very Bonnes Mares nose, palate is laden with sappy dark brambly fruit, lots of layers and this is a big wine that fills the mouth and lasts on the finish for an impressive amount of time. (Matt Tipping)

Look out for our offer of these fantastic Bernstein wines on Friday.

We were honored to be sent this video by Peter Gago, Penfolds Chief Winemaker, and we’re very much looking forward to the release of the new Bin Series this week and the Icon and Luxury range in May.

A number of Berrys’ staff were lucky enough to attend the launch tasting of the new Bin Series last Friday 1st March in the East Room on the top floor of the Tate Modern. The stunning view of the London skyline by night was the perfect backdrop, and the line-up of new Bin Series wines was an equally welcome sight. Francis Huicq, Berry Bros. & Rudd’s London Shop Manager shares his thoughts and highlights of the tasting below:

I found the tasting fascinating in the sense it was highlighting the contrast between both 2010 and 2011 in a very interesting way.

While I found the 2011 reds suffering a lack of clarity, definition and frame to support quite high acidities and wood ageing, the 2010 have more pedigree, depth of flavour and their tight knit structures are there to announce that these wines will age well.

The Riesling (Bin 51) was a lot of fun to taste packed with clean and mineral, floral notes suggesting honeysuckle, jasmin and also a touch of tropical fruit. On the palate this wine was full and ripe with plenty of lemon, a touch of spice and a rich, mouth-coating finish.

The Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz was very classic in the way it displayed a restrained character not often common with Barossa Shiraz wines. Crushed blackcurrant fruit lead to a herbal edge suggesting thyme or rosemary which was adding some freshness to its intense bouquet. Dry and robust on the palate and well-balanced, it had abundant and ripe tannins which will enable this wine to age well over the next 5-10 years.

The last of my favourite wines of the tasting was the impressive 2010 Bin 389 Cabernet/Shiraz blend, also known as ‘baby Grange’. This had an attractive and complete bouquet with complex notes of fine wine lees, dried fruits and a touch of cured grilled meat. Aromatic herbs and a touch balsamic were standing shy in the background. Polished and smooth at first sight, its texture was tighter from mid-palate. Quite restrained in style, the Cabernet giving the impression that it will age (for the time being) the Shiraz did the talking. Well balanced, this wine has an immediate approachability adding a lot to its attractive personality.

The new release of Penfolds Bin Series wines will be available from Friday 8th March.

Hosting a dinner for 10 guests with a multi course menu is a daunting task to some but not Wine Club members Neil and Mary. Having decided on an Italian menu, Neil got in touch with me to ask for some suggestions of wines to share the spotlight. Armed with Mary’s delicious menu I recommended some wines to treat the Turfitts’ guests to on the evening of their elaborate festicciola.

I would normally suggest Champagne to start but Prosecco felt like a more appropriate choice, being both Italian and incredibly fashionable at the moment. It’s the perfect way to kick off an evening in style because it offers a frothy, fruity punch of bubbles and gets everyone in the mood with its fresh simplicity.

The menu started as all good Italian menus should: with antipasti followed by a pasta course. Next in line was a rich venison stew and the menu closed with that most Italian of all dishes, Tiramisu.

Following the fizz, a glass of Gavi di Gavi was suggested to match to the antipasti. Combining fresh apple fruit and a softly textured waxy lemon finish, I thought it would stand up well to the myriad of flavours from the antipasti which featured cured meats, delicious olives and sundried tomatoes from a small local deli. As an alternative, Fiano di Avellino offered a breath of Southern air, providing a richer contrast to the Piedmonte Gavi, with its minerally, pear fruited notes.

Pasta was next, coated in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce cooked at the last minute, and I thought a Malvasia from the South would work well; it has a lovely minerality and is good with lighter pasta dishes. Some guests will always prefer red wine with pasta so I also offered a Barbera D’Asti . Its peppery, crunchy red fruit provided a little more intensity of flavour than the white.

The main course was a rich hunter’s style venison stew – in lieu of veal – and Langhe Nebbiolo the suggestion. Made from the same grape variety as fêted Barolos and Barbarescos, this gives a flavour of those great wines at a fraction of the price which is a handy trick when catering for a large number. As the sauce was tomato based, I thought the acidity of the wine would match well.

Vin Santo had to be the pudding wine- this deliciously sweet wine, which is a Tuscan speciality, is made from grapes dried out on straw mats. Delivering a hit of orange peel freshness and honeyed richness, this is a treat not only with rich puddings like the Tiramisu served but also hard Italian cheeses.

If you would like me to recommend you recipes to match your wines please email me at wineclub@bbr.com